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I look like a ghost! Haha here's some shots of the first round of our samgyupsal feast. Also how much do you love that right next to the water cups on the table, THERE ARE SHOT GLASSES. Because they are as commonplace as drinking water clearly. If casual drinking were as prevalent in America, I feel like we might have less problems with all the bad drinking-involved incidents. Like the theories about changing the drinking age and it having an effect on lessening underage drinking/binge drinking. As a person who was underage not long ago, I can say this idea definitely has merit. A lot of kids only underage binge drink because it's not legal. It's just a fact.
Today I met Dajeong for a double kbbq feast! We had both samgyupsal and marinated pork, along with the egg stew and spicy soybean soup. We had a few struggles when getting our drinks from the soda machine...Dajeong slightly nudged the ice trigger and this DELUGE of ice came crashing down and spread all over the floor hahaha, her face was the funniest thing ever. It was like this "I DIDN'T DO IT" face, so cute. Our food was delicious! Dajeong says I eat like a Korean now that I know what to do with everything on the table and how to eat different things properly. For some reason that really pleased me haha; I'm so used to being the bumbling foreigner, forever embarassed all the time because native people here expect me to know what to do/where to go, but I don't. 
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Coffeesmith is one of the few Korean coffeehouses I haven't tried yet! It had a very casual, minimalistic, and almost rustic feel to the decor. I had my usual :) Isn't it cute?
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I've mentioned before how I love when coffeeshops are on upper floors over here. The walk up is a bother, but getting to have a bird's-eye view of the streets and street vendors you are so used to walking by is fun in itself. It's like a completely different perspective; everything looks familiar but different. Does that make sense? It's like looking at your bedroom from between your legs, upside down. You know in your mind that you are looking at your familiar bedroom, but it looks like a completely foreign place...no? Am I the only one who does this?? xD
We talked for awhile about the differences in the Korean language and English language, one of our favorite topics because Dajeong (like my friend Yeji!) shares my interest in linguistics. There are so many small nuances in both languages that make it difficult to explain certain phrases. We were both glad that we didn't have to learn the opposite language hahah, because we each thought the other language was complicated. 

After lunch we got coffee at new Coffeesmith down the street. Dajeong was just commenting on how the place seemed new as we walked up the stairs to the second floor (where the Coffeesmith was), and then we walked straight into a sign that proclaimed that it was the Grand Opening of this branch :D Good call Dajeong! Over our drinks she shared some seriously funny stories about her being in the US that I won't share to save her the embarrassment lol. They were hilarious though ^.^
After coffee, I headed out back over to the subway. I had to meet my friend Yeji back at Sinchon but first I had wanted to stop by Namdaemun. I had previously planned Namdaemun for today because I wanted to buy last-minute gifts but given how packed my suitcases were already, I just looked today. I didn't spend much time there, since if I lingered too long I was bound to buy something haha. Back by Yonsei University I was struck by the amount of people crossing the street opposite me. 

It was around 6pm and there was this MASSIVE OUTFLOW of students coming out of Yonsei. Wtf? It appeared that this was when school normally ended for them, probably only for a break before coming back to study more. I know when I was in college, there would be students who had classes at 5 or 6, but it was rare. Most classes were in the afternoon and we ended then. This was like, the entire university all not ending classes until this late. Daebak 0.o
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My epic search for wifi in the FREEZING bitter cold ended when finally after walking for ages and stopping at no less than 15 different potential coffeeshops, I found a Coffee Bean with wifi I could use from outside (Dr. Beans LOL). Wifi here is not consistent. I have been to a Starbucks by my hotel and there was no wifi, but the Starbucks by the Mnet center had super fast free wifi. The Coffee Bean by the Mnet center however, had ZERO wifi and this was had wifi so strong I didn't even have to go inside to use it. Others, like Holly's, have wifi but it's locked and you need a password. There is almost always some form of Ollehwifi or Twifi anywhere you go, but those are Korean wireless companies and you need to pay for them or have a Korean phone. I was trying to get wifi so I could contact Haeri, who I was supposed to get sushi with tonight
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This time I was smart; I bought TWO tornadoes at the same time to save myself the inevitable trip back for the second one after I ate the first haha. You have never seen such a happy happy girl as me as I sat down in the subway station and munched on them. Like, EVER. I got lots of weird looks but hey, I'm more than used to them. Keep em coming folks haha. - Also some more cute earrings I picked up and a shot of the Han River bridge lights as we crossed over. So pretty!
Now that I'm leaving again soon, I took another moment to appreciate subway travel. I always love it so much and appreciate it's efficiency when I first get here, then I get desensitized to it and take it for granted. I got a serious case of the giggles watching everyone on the subway tilt this way and that, swaying backwards and forwards then backwards again, all in unison. Most people are on their phone, so they aren't paying much attention to the abrupt swaying of the train; it often catches a businessman or adjumma by surprise and they have a near wipeout, which is always entertaining :D But what really gets me is the communal swaying lol. It's just so funny! I feel like you have to be there to know what I'm so giggly about. All these strict adjusshis or power-suit wearing women, and it's like were all on the same kiddie ride at an amusement park.

It's also pretty hilarious how all the grandpas and grandmas with gnarled hands and white/no hair play games like Farmville on their giant Samsung phones. They're all super super into them too, focusing hard with their faces close to the screens; it's adorable!
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I had showered this morning and it was late by the time I arrived back at my hotel, so I just wanted to wash my face and go to bed. However, I had packed most of my stuff already since I was leaving tomorrow...including my face wash T.T It was then that I blessed the freebies I got from the cosmetics stores and handouts from people on the street, because I still had 2 packets of make-up removing wipes and cleansing wipes to use instead :) I made myself some citron tea to relax, planned out my (last!) half-day tomorrow, and then passed out ^^
Before I climbed the stairs back up to the surface streets, for the first time ever I helped a foreigner with directions!! Haha, generally I am seen as native (read: not fluent in English) but this guy didn't seem to mind. He was standing in front of the (supremely confusing and utterly useless) subway station map with his phone open to something he was looking for, with this confused and slightly pained expression. I was thinking 'heyyyy I know that look!!' haha, it's the one where you know where you need to go, and how to get there but you can't seem to equate your directions in English and these directions in Korean. So you are stuck. And the pained part of the expression is because you know you need help but you can't exactly stop any passerby to ask for assistance because they won't understand a thing you're saying. So again, you're stuck. However, he flagged me down very nicely and asked for help finding an e -mart indicated on his phone but without an exit number. I didn't know of any e-mart but I told him of the Lotte Mart I go to at the top of 6! He looked so happy and relieved haha, then thanked me and said cheers.
 
One of the many wonderful things about the Korean-style heated floors is that when I wake up in the morning, I not only don't have cold feet when I get out of bed, I can warm up my socks by laying them on the floor so they are toasty when I put them on. Do you know what a wonderful feeling putting on warm, toasty socks is?? It's like putting on a sweater fresh out of the dryer :3

I went to the Top10 store in Gangnam this morning to exchange two jackets I had bought for a different size. I still have not figured out their sizes there, since I was unaccustomed to clothes in Korea HAVING size (generally everything there I have bought in the past is what is called a "free size". In layman's terms, you either fit this hybrid cross between an XS/M, or you are SOL. I say cross between XS and M because some areas are super small but others are really loose. For example, I fit most clothes in Korea but often the shoulders or chest area are too tight. They are often really long vertically though, since it is the style there to have shirts that sometimes go down to your knee area. It varies from article to article, but apparently the 105 size I got at Top10 was like an XXL or something lol. I exchanged them for 95's). I ended up walking into Top10 before it was even open, although how I was supposed to know that I don't know. The doors were unlocked and workers were moving about inside, so I came in. I went upstairs to the counter where a female worker was standing, whereupon she (I'm assuming) told me in Korean that they weren't open yet. I played the dumb foreigner because I was on a tight time schedule today, and didn't want to have to come back lugging my big bag of jackets. She was really nice, even though she didn't really know what to do lol. She tried explaining again Korean and did the floundering-don't-know-what-to-do-shy-Korean thing they do whenever I speak only in English and they don't know any English. It's cute ^^. I bought another of the men's cardigans I got last time at the Top10 at COEX, since it fit so well and is made so nicely. And is still only 10,000 won!! 


The KoreaPost office I went to mail a postcard is so scarily efficient, I actually had to ask the elderly guard/helper guy wandering around what the heck I was supposed to do. I was intimidated by the office lol. There were 5-6 workers along the long desk to help you but there were no lines. Zero. Instead, there were tons of chairs and people seated in them; think like the pharmacy at Kaiser, where you get a number and wait for your number or name to flash up on the screen and then you go up to the counter. It was like that here, but you take a number and then wait until one of the desks had your number flash above the station. In the meantime, I was left to sit in comfort and wonder why I don't live here again. WONDERFUL. Every US post office I have ever had the misfortune to go into has inevitably had a horribly expected long line snaking around that takes forever because there are only one or two people at the desk. Who are usually very rude and cranky and as unhelpful as possible. I'm sorry you hate your job but that is NOT my fault >.< No offense to any respectable postal workers out there, I know you are numerous. I just haven't had the good fortune to ever meet any of you :(
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Thank you thank you Tina for showing me how to properly eat seolleongtang!! Without you, I would've been lost- and totally eating this in the wrong way hahaha. The staff would think I was retarded AND crazy. It wasn't until I was inspecting all the different pots on the table that I saw the salt and remembered I was supposed to put it into the soup T.T No wonder this broth tasted like water, and here I was thinking, damn, that other place we went to last time was way better hahah. Once the salt and pepper were in, it tasted as delicious as I remembered.
Since I had kalguksoo twice already, I wanted seolleongtang (my other favorite Korean dish) a second time as well! Dajeong had looked up places for me around Gangnam the other day, so I searched around the back streets near Sinnonhyeon station before I came across the place she had mentioned. I'm so so thankful that I can read Korean relatively fast now, so I'm not standing in the middle of the street, lips moving, and my eyes fixed on a sign that is probably advertising a random brand of ramen or something hahah. The looks people gave me were weird enough @.@

I feel like the young guy who greeted me thought I was Korean but my brain was so fuzzy that when he spoke to me, it took me a minute or two to get my bearings. It was the weirdest thing, I think I was still distracted from having spent the last half hour focusing solely on my Korean reading skills. I understood him and knew how to respond but for some reason it caught me off guard, so I just stood there vaguely saying ah yes...just one person....ah yes...seolleongtang...ah yes okay, I'll sit over here...T.T He probably thought I was retarded lol. Whatevs. I asked him in English for the dish I wanted, partially because I can't pronounce the 15 character long name of the dish and partially so the staff knows I'm foreign and not some depressed random girl eating seolleongtang all by herself. FT Island playing while I waited for my food, which made me happy. They aren't as big in Korea so you don't hear too many of their songs playing in public places. 
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I went back to the same store I had bought my black knapsack from the other day to buy two more adorable bags. I didn't know if their 50% sale would be ending soon, so..seize the day!! The store's name is Naughty Kitty if I remember correctly...I don't know what's up with their store name choices here haha but clearly they don't understand the implications in English. And I thought Kinki Robot was the worst they could do...
I spent some time afterwards wandering around and shopping. I had wanted to go back to the store where I bought my knapsack for 10,000 and I wasn't disappointed by the bag selection they had today! I was having lunch with my friend Yeji today so I headed over to Sinchon. She is studying for her civil service/government position placement exams or something of the kind, which are EXTREMELY difficult. She was explaining how they work to me over lunch, and I was like Mind = Blown. It makes the bar exam look like a first-grade spelling test. (No offense to any potential or past bar exam takers, it was just a joke!) 

Seriously though. The people here take this test over and over again, and the whole series of tests take almost a full year. So people fail over and over and take it over and over. You have to study and take the first part of the first test, then the second part of the first test a few months later. Then you have to take the first part of the second test, the second part of the second test, and the third part of the second test, and so on. And if you don't pass ANY of these parts, you fail and stop right there. You can only continue if you pass each part. And in the final part, only 50% of the test-takers are accepted into the government sector they desire to be in. THAT MEANS AFTER ALL THAT WORK, TIME, STRESS, AND EFFORT IN CRAMMING ALL YEAR, ONLY HALF OF THE ALREADY CUT-DOWN AMOUNT OF PEOPLE WHO MAKE IT TO THE END WILL GET THEIR JOB. Yeji said she wakes up at 7am and studies studies studies until 11pm when she goes home and eats and then wakes up to do it again the next day. And the next. And the next. Goddamn. No wonder everyone's smarter in Asia O.O Yeji will pass the test though, I have faith in her! My eonnie is a smart cookie :) She wants to work in international relations, and she will be WONDERFUL at it. 
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Yes, I AM drooling AGAIN over their adorably chic and elegant cafeterias. Apparently cafeterias here are like modern sit-down restaurants and cafes. Seriously! They are so cute. Cafeterias at home consist of plain scratched plastic tables and benches, with kitschy decor. Swell.
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We got jjajangmyun, a popular Chinese dish (black bean sauce over noodles). Yeji ordered me some fried mandu (dumplings) and pork with this yummy sweet chili sauce on them too! Last time I was here, we ate at the Western side cafeteria, which is on the opposite site of the building. This was the Eastern side cafeteria, but still had a Western food window nonetheless. I was DYING over their food return area; it had a conveyor belt that you just plop your tray on and it moves it along, like a plate of sushi. There were little cut out holes to put your spoons, forks, and chopsticks in, all marked by a little sign with a spoon, fork, or chopsticks! IT WAS SO CUTE, I was freaking out so hard Yeji was cracking up haha. I have no idea why that tickled me so much; I think it was the chopsticks marked hole lol. It was so Asian and perfect. We would never have that in America and I wish we did!
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Shops and restaurants in the Sinchon/Edae area I saw as I walked around. It's so busy and colorful here, with funny shop names, unique building designs, and the common multi-stacked thin, tall buildings (with like 5 different cafes/restaurants/stores one on top of the other going up vertically). Trying to practice and read the signs in Korean keeps it interesting! I know I'm still a highly inexperienced traveler and all, but I really do think Seoul has a unique flavor that's all its own.
After we ate, we got coffee at her university's coffee shop with ridiculously low student prices (cuz of course, they have that too. They have a FLOWER shop and hair salon in their university. What do they not have... @.@). It's so awesome the university really tries to make it easier for students by making the food and coffee so afforable. When they give "student prices" at UCSB, it was more like "here, take 50 cents off. Aren't we so generous?". Here, they give you whole trays of food for a couple thousand won, as opposed to the 8,000 or higher you'd be paying otherwise. Yeji had to get back to studying so she walked me back to the front and then I headed off to Edae. Thanks for making time to meet with me Yeji!! <3
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I wandered into this GIANT Artbox on my way to Edae. The pill looking things in the bottles are actually small capsules with scraps of paper in them. You are supposed to write on them once a day for a year. They have smaller bottles, for a month's worth or tiny ones with just a week's worth of capsules. Really cute! Also hamburger notepads and yummy candy bins :)
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Like Japan, they take recycling and separation of trash seriously here. Not only are there NEVER any trashcans anywhere in public (so I have to hang on to my trash pretty much all day until I get home), when I DO finally find a rare trashcan, they are often like these ;_; They are color coded and I DONT KNOW WHAT GOES IN EACH ONE. So I'm too scared to put my trash in one, in case it's only for glass or only for combustibles, or only for electronics or something. I DON'T KNOW, I'm American. The extent of my recycling knowledge is blue bin = recycling. The bins are also tiny here. These were bins for restaurants and stuff O.O The bins we have at my RESIDENTIAL HOME are like three times the size of these lol. The restaurant trash bins at home are like small houses.
Edae is only one stop over from Sinchon, so I just walked horizontally from Yonsei. I love Edae in the same way that I love Hongdae. I love the atmosphere and the vibrance coming from the area. It's not quite like Hongdae though, which is a more mellow hang-out kind of place for boys and girls. Edae, in accordance with its proximity to the all-girls Ehwa University, is a girlier version of Hongdae. It has tons of girls clothing stores, heaps of cosmetics stores (often you see the same exact store only a few stores down from the first one), and tons of jewelry and shoe vendors all over. Everything is really pretty and cute, and obviously targets girls. It is similar to Hongdae also in it's maze of streets with endless shops going in all directions. It's easy to get lost! 
I made a most happy discovery of my favorite tornadoes as well! The adjusshi manning the stand sold ugly hotdogs (and normal corndogs) as well as sausages. He also had a whole collection of seasonings to put on the tornadoes after they were done, unlike the last cart I bought them from. I used an onion & garlic powder on mine :) It was SO YUMMY SO YUMMY SO YUMMY. Like heaven in little crispy tasty bites :3 I could sit and eat these things forever, so it's probably good that I don't live here. Just writing about them is making me want some SO BADLY. I can't even explain it. Yes it sounds good when reading about it, but there's something about them when you're actually munching on it that is just so...GOOD. It's addicting, like all the street vendor food here T.T
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Chicken & beer are so common and popular, there is term for them Haeri told me about. I can't remember what it is exactly, but it's literally a combination of the words for beer and chicken. THEY GO TOGETHER SO WELL, THEY HAVE BECOME ONE WORD. - Also some more shots from around the streets of Edae. With all this in your face, can you kiiiiind of start to understand how I end up shopping so much??
Pretty much the most common lower body clothing I see here on women are these leggings/skirt combination articles. The skirt is attached to the leggings. They are most often a short, tight pencil skirt-esque kind of skirt made of the same material as the leggings. Occasionally I see a flared or other variation on these...skeggings? I have never seen them before I came here to Korea, so I was kind of taken aback the first time I saw them lol. However, TAKE HEED AMERICAN LADIES. This is how you are supposed to wear leggings; they are not pants. I repeat, THEY ARE NOT PANTS. It's one of my biggest pet peeves ever. Wear a long shirt that covers your butt or wear shorts or a skirt over them. There is NOBODY who wants or needs to see that much of your butt on any given day. Seriously I don't care who you are. It's not pretty.
I made my way back to the main drag of Edae and walked towards the subway. I had miraculously managed to not buy a single thing yet, other than my first Tornado when I first arrived. I had fun browsing and window shopping, but talked myself out of buying anything that caught my eye and I actually considered getting. As a reward, I bought a second Tornado because the first really did nothing but make me want another one immediately hahah. 
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My Etude House goodies + samples and free mask, and the HK perfume I bought Jess from there! Jess loves Hello Kitty ^^. I also got my favorite hand cream from Missha, with a free face-cleansing wipe pack they added to my bag. Before I entered the subway station I passed this large group of young adults who were animatedly chatting with these two white foreign guys (they sounded German) in completely broken and random English. They were so excited about it though, it made me smile. More kept joining the group too. I had heard that many young people, upon finding out that you speak English, will immediately strike up a conversation with you in English so they can practice. I think that's so awesome!! However, I'm always out and about during the day so I generally encounter the older generation and they are either suddenly afraid or look at me like I'm a bug if I speak English lol. So this was a nice thing to witness.
Of course, I AM leaving the country just a few days so I stopped by an Etude House and a Missha on the way to the station and picked up some last minute things I wanted to take back. I was planning on stopping by the Gangnam Underground Shopping Center on my way back to Yeoksam too, so I could look for a carry-on back to use on my way home. I had had to check-in my carry-on bag on the way over to Korea and somewhere in transit it had ripped :( 
Of course, I should have known better -.- The Shopping Center is dangerous. I walked into the Center, full of good intentions and firm convictions. I left with 3 shirts, 4 sweaters/cardigans, a duffel, several boxes of citron tea, and a most interesting collection of adorable earrings. Wah. At least I accomplished my original mission of finding a carry-on?!? Lol. It just goes so fast...I stay strong in the beginning and bypass everything that catches my eye, but after like the 150th store with adorable clothes and sale signs everywhere, you start to break down...I spent less than $100 on all that but I was carrying like 9 bags because of the backpacks I had bought earlier that day and the Etude House/Missha stuff. I forgot to mention how much that makes me stand out lol. Whenever I go shopping and then head home afterwards with my 5-6 bags, it automatically makes me look foreign because the people who live here have this all the time so they never really go on "sprees". If anything, the most they are carrying is one small bag from a cosmetics shop or a paper bag with a cake from a bakery. I stopped for a minute on a bench to think and regroup, and then realized some of my purchases were things that could hold other stuff! I packed my purse and all the smaller bags into my small duffel and into the larger of the two backpacks I had bought and headed back into the subway with my hands now blessedly free...they were starting to turn red and throb from all the weight they had been carrying lol. 
As SOON as I started carting around the duffel and backpack people would ask me if I was Korean first thing, as if checking haha. They wouldn't immediately assume I was. Then I would get the chance to tell them I was from America and avoid all the awkward staring, the averted eyes, and confused looks. I guess Americans who LOOK American (read: white people) are rare here but Asian people who LOOK Korean then don't know a lick of Korean and say they're from America are even rarer -.- How splendid for me. I'm practically a martyr. Or an alien.

Also, I saw a Jo Kwon on the subway home. It was young and still had not reached full J.Kwon maturity, but it was most DEFINITELY a Jo Kwon :D I couldn't believe my eyes. I wanted to take him home with me so I can be his friend when he gets older and he can make me laugh until I turn blue and die hahah. I was happy leaving him there though. The next generation will need another Jo Kwon once my generation's one has gotten older and gone into retirement...pfft. Who am I kidding. Jo Kwon will never go into retirement xD
 
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THE LINE FOR THIS PLACE WAS SO LONG o.o
I met my friend Dajeong today for lunch at a place in Gangnam she described to me as kind of "unique"...didn't know if I should be scared or not hahah. Thankfully it turned out to be this AMAZING italian-fusion restaurant with a unique THEME. The food was also unique but in a good way :) I say italian-fusion because it was italian food, but not. Dajeong described it as Korean-ized, which I am now officially going to make a word because it describes so many things perfectly lol. There are so many foods and concepts here that I recognize but that are a little different, or tweaked, or something...it is because they are Korean-ized and totally awesome in general. 

The line for the restaurant was so long!! The place was SO popular, I was really excited :) The line of people curved out of the restaurant and around onto the sidewalk and into the office building next door! 0.0 And more people came as soon as Dajeong and I took a place at the end of the line! I COULDN'T BELIEVE IT. 

The theme for the restaurant was "construction" I guess? It was very metal and factory-worker chic inside, with a very fun, laid-back but still classy atmosphere. I had noticed all the waiters seemed to be cheerful, attractive young men and I later found out why from Dajeong. She was telling me how this restaurant was really popular for women especially. I asked why, and she said it was like Coffee Prince: Restaurant Version; this restaurant ONLY hired good-looking young males :D AND IT TOTALLY WORKS. I couldn't believe I was sitting in a real life version of Coffee Prince hahah, and watching it's ridiculous success with my own two eyes. Why don't more businesses here do this? There's not really discrimination prevention laws here like the ones in America, so why not haha. 
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We ate our way through the pan cheese from each side and completely without meaning to, we ended up creating what looked like a slice of pizza!! When we sat back, pretty full, we looked down and realized we'd turned the fake pizza into some real pizza hahah. We ate a little more, making it a SMALLER pizza slice but this ended up being how we left it since we were stuffed. We cracked up over this for quite awhile too...yea. We're of the easily amused variety, clearly :D
Once inside, we ordered at a central ordering desk (think Stonefire) and in accordance with the construction theme, we received a construction hat with a number on it. We decided on a garlic bacon pan cheese (that's right, I said pan CHEESE, not pan pizza...details later) and spaghetti salad (can't believe this hasn't been invented and reached widespread popularity by now). They asked which general area we were sitting in, since the place was HUGE, and then gave us our hat. 

S/N: This place really was gigantic, in terms of Korean restaurants over here. Most are small and narrow and go either up a floor or down a floor if they are "larger" places. This one was two stories, packed in with tables (all of which were full), and REALLY wide, so I was surprised at the scale of it all. Guess they need it to accomodate the flood of customers...and there's STILL a massive line outside!

The inside of this place is extremely lively and its fun just sitting in there. When the waiters come by with your food, they are loud and energetic and talk you through the food (which comes in big bowls that you share from; everything here is like Stonefire, down to the numbers on your table waiters use to find you to bring your food) and then give each person at the table a big high five!! HOW FUN :D Dajeong had called my attention to it earlier when a waiter was giving another table with a boy and girl at it, high-fives. I thought they had just told a joke or something, or they knew the waiter. So I was somewhat shocked when our waiter came, explained everything, and then energetically held his hand out to me for a high-five. No wonder this place is so popular with the women hahah. Whoever is the business owner is a smart cookie. And a rich one T.T
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OUR DELICIOUS FOOD. I don't know what kind of food they serve up there in heaven, but it's gotta be something like this spaghetti salad and bacon & garlic pan cheese.
The food was sooooooo yummmmmmmmmmy. I almost melted all over the table, it was so good. Dajeong I'm sorry I probably wasn't very good conversation, what with me stuffing my face as fast as I humanely could for a good 10 minutes xD The salad, while normal looking on top, had a bed of spaghetti underneath the lettuce that you mix up with the leaves. It had a sort of dressing on it that was really good, light but with a bit of spicy to it to keep it interesting. 

The pan cheese was exactly what it sounded like. Like a pan pizza, but all cheese. Alllllll cheese :D In other words, MY FOODIE DREAM COME TRUE. I couldn't believe it when I started eating it and tasted it (you scoop it with a spoon btw). Now, everyone knows burnt cheese is pretty much the best thing on this planet, because it doesn't actually burn it just gets all crispy, golden-brown, and delicious. Yea well, this was AN ENTIRE PAN OF THAT DELICIOUS CRISPY, GOOEY CHEESE. WITH BACON AND ROASTED GARLIC CHIPS ON TOP OF IT. THAT YOU EAT WITH A GIANT SPOON OUT OF THE PAN. How the eff does life get ANY better than this, honestly? Can somebody tell me? Anyone, no? Didn't think so. 
Once I had calmed down enough for rational conversation (read: once I was completely stuffed and the food was taken away), we headed out to hit Innisfree and Aritaum in search of more face masks and some other stuff I wanted to take back home with me. It really helps having someone along who speaks both English and Korean fluently because then she could read me the labels on all the sheet masks and bottles I was purchasing when they didn't have English on them. Most of the time they do, but they don't put much information in English, just the bare essentials (like, This is a hand lotion. Or Face scrub for exfoliation). It doesn't tell me whats in it or what specific thing it is for (whitening, moisturizing, acne-prone skin). Having Daejong along is a god-send.

We stopped for coffee at a place called The Banana & Co, Today just seemed to be a day of both gargantuan proportions and extreme popularity because this was EASILY the most giant coffeeshop I've ever been in, United States and Korea locations both. We ordered our drinks on the first level when we walked in then started looking for a table. The decor inside was simple, cute, and a bit funky with splashes of color among the glass and black. Finding none on the first floor, we went up the stairs to the second floor. Finding none on the second floor, we went up to the third floor. Finding none on the third floor, we went up to the fourth floor. Finding none on the FOURTH floor, we went up to the FIFTH FLOOR. And finding none on the FIFTH FLOOR, DAJEONG WENT UP MORE STAIRS TO CHECK A FREAKING SIXTH FLOOR ATTIC AREA. Really?! A six-floor gigantic coffee shop?? WITH EVERY TABLE FILLED. Holy criminy, I seriously couldn't believe it. Every. Single. Table. In this massive place. On the higher up floors they had those cute Asian low tables where you take off your shoes before going up on the raised platform where the tables were, and sit on cushions. 
Admitting defeat, we began the long, long descent back down to Earth (aka the first-floor). Back on the first floor, we happened to see a small table right by the staircase that we immediately grabbed. Almost simultaenously, Dajeong noticed another staircase behind the one we had just come down on...one that went DOWN. HOMG THIS BUILDING HAS FLOORS BELOW US TOO?!?!?!? O.o

Dajeong also spotted another table that just opened up by the windows so we relocated to that one instead, just as our buzzer rang. We sipped our drinks and happily chatted for awhile now that we fiiiiiiinally had a table; I've really missed this girl!! :)
Dajeong asked me if there was anything else I was trying to buy while I was here and I mentioned I had wanted a rechargable battery, like the kind that you can pre-charge then carry around and charge your phone, ipod, tablet, etc. if they happen to die on you away from home? This had happened a few times to me during the days I was at the music broadcasting shows, due to lots of phone use talking to my friends and taking lots of pictures. And being without your phone, in a foreign country, all by yourself is just...not a good way to go, okay? For one, I can't even listen to music on the subway. Or take pretty pictures for you folks to see later. On another note, I can't call for help if I ever needed it or locate my friends if they're trying to find me. I also can't use my Jihachul app to find me a subway route to wherever I want to go either. So I really wanted a backup plan, in case this happened again.

Dajeong thought for a bit then took me to an Apple retailer called Frisbee (like I explained in my first trip's blog, there are no actual Apple stores here, only licensed retailers). After asking around, we found a selection of rechargable batteries, some only for the iphone, some big, some small. I settled on a slim, metal one that had a USB port; I wanted to be able to charge an appliance I had with me that needed it, not just my iPhone. This particular battery was super cool too, as it was multi-functional. It was also a flashlight, a pocket handwarmer (heated up like a mini-heater!), AND a rechargable battery. It had different settings you could click the top to, and different light colors it glowed for each function so you'd have to be blind and sensationless to mix it all up. Talk about a nifty thing to have in an emergency, ANY kind of emergency, huh? :D

When I opened the box later, I also realized IT COMES WITH ITS OWN SOCK COVER. I almost fell over, it was so cute and adorable and Asian and AWESOME. I actually just wasn't expecting it lol, it was so perfect for it.
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Top left: waiting for the subway back home with all my purchases in hand! - Top right: colorful adorable hoodies at a street vendor's display! I wanted one so bad (I had seen them at other places around Seoul) but I have so many hoodies and jackets already...so I resisted. No mean feat, I tell you... - Bottom left: Can't forget about my favorite touristy thing to do here in Seoul...media pole pictures!! :D - Bottom right: a super awesome, artsy map of the area of Gangnam we were in. I'm assuming it was for tourists but it was so pretty it was like a work of art instead.
On the way back home as I walked through Gangnam station, I almost ran into this guy carrying a gigantic fistful of instant coffee packets clutched tightly in one hand, holding it out in front of him. He was walking like he was on a mission. Uh...okay?? Lol, I'm sure there's a really good story behind that...or he's just weird. 
Back in my room I surveyed my purchases from today. I had several new types of pretty face masks to try with some new free Aritaum and Innisfree essence samples to try out as well. I also had picked up some green tea latte and green flake latte (with crispy brown rice in it) instant packets at Olive Young; since Dajeong knew about my green tea latte infatuation, she suggested I try out some instant brands to see if I liked one so I could bring it back with me if I wanted. She's such a good friend :)) 

I had also picked up this ADORABLE little black and tan knapsack for only 10,000 won!! I had seen this exact backpack in Myeongdong at a bag sellers place for like 60,000 won when I was there with Jess. Jess, do you remember it? I was holding two bags and asked you to check the price of this one (that I just bought today) that was hanging on the wall above you in that Myeongdong shop? I am definitely coming back to this store before I leave and picking up another bag...or two. Their bag designs here are seriously cute. The bag looks small in the picture, but its a nice size in actuality, and is more than big enough to fit all the stuff from my purse. I love when bags have zippers everywhere where I can put small things too <3
 
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LOOK AT MY CUTE NEW BOW hahah. I usually just clip my hair up with a normal metal clip when I don't feel like dealing with my bangs, but now I found something cuter to clip them back with :) - I headed out early enough that I saw the 8-person morning street crew washing down the sidewalks and cleaning the streets...A HA. So THAT'S why everything here is so sparkly and clean all the time. I was starting to think I was in some alternate universe where dirt was just rejected from all materials...
And then there was one...Saturday is Music Core day! Music Core is the last of the music broadcasting shows I haven't attended yet; it is also located the farthest, all the way in Ilsan. On a map of the subway system in Seoul, it's SO far off to the side, it's practically not on the map -.- However, it has one of the biggest studios so it can hold a ton of people. It used to be even bigger too. 
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Long long subway ride >.< It was supposed to be sunny today so I wore fleece-lined tights, gray tweed shorts, a longsleeve shirt, a thin sweater, my thick coral sweater, and a black blazer with thick knitted gloves and my huge thick knitted scarf. I shouldn't have even taken the sun into consideration and just dressed WARMLY instead, because the sun was mostly useless all day (we were waiting in shade or the sun was too weak for us to feel it much >.<). It says something about how cold it was here when my dressing in four layers isn't dressing warm. It's dressing for a warm day T.T
Omg there are girls walking around in skirts. Like schoolgirls, with no tights. Or scarves. It makes me colder just looking at them O.O 

I got out of my subway exit after the longest subway ride EVER (I legit SLEPT on this one, I usually just nap or doze), and walked across a few streets and down a few more blocks to the MBC Dream Center where Music Core is held. It is FREEZING as usual. But somehow even colder than usual, because there's tons of tall buildings in this area and so everything is in shadow pretty much and tinted blue-ish because it's so early.
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/inhales. See this beautiful clear day? Breathe in that freezing Ilsan air with me now. Luckily though, you can't feel the pain of frigid air entering your lungs all day while gusts of icy wind go right through your clothes @.@
As this music show is broadcasted on Saturdays, this means I was anticipating a sharp upswing in the already incredibly amount of fans who line up and attend these shows. Why? Because it's the weekend and that means some students don't have school today and can attend this show, unlike Show Champion, M!Countdown, and Music Bank, which are on the weekdays (although you still see kids in school uniforms at these shows, who definitely just told their parents they were going to school and then headed off to wait for the music broadcasts lol). As prepared as I was for the amount of people to wait with, I was SERIOUSLY shocked by the hundreds of people already there when I got there at 8am. Like wtf? It took me an hour and a half just to get here by subway!! HOW DID THEY GET HERE SO EARLY. They had all gotten here way earlier too because JUST as I was walking up, they were already calling out names from the list for those who had taken pictures and sent them in! I hadn't even had a chance to FIND the sign, much less take a picture, find wifi, and send it. It then hit me how seriously these students take the weekend shows (Music Core and Inkigayo on Sunday), since they don't get the rest during the week. Yeesh. I managed to speak to the fan coordinators at the end of the name-calling (which took over an hour, there were SO MANY EFFING PEOPLE) and got a number at the end of the list by playing the dumb & foreign card. 

So there were we, lining up at freezing o'clock, on a sunny day but waiting IN THE SHADE of the gigantic MBC Dream Center building for reasons unbeknownst to me. I was at the end of the list at 8am but by the afternoon, there were tons of people behind me who had come later and had to try to add their names to the list, including Trisha who was leaving for Japan later that day and had to deal with her luggage this morning (making her a little late >.<). Poor thing :(
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The coffee shop located inside the MBC studio is called "Coffee Prince" hahah. Obviously a nod to their famous Coffee Prince drama. It was so crowded with people all day though that I never went and got a coffee, despite the cold. - Also, a pretty display in the lobby of the Dream Center!
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The inside of the MCB Dream Center (pretty isn't it?) and our kalguksoo lunch! I know the Dream Center is far as hell and all, but it IS really huge and really nice inside. It's all marble and carpeted staircases and colorful displays with the station's history and past shows it aired, etc.
So as not to bore you with the details, more waiting, jumping, dancing, and finding new methods of preventing frostbite and persuading my mind that ACTUALLY I'm in the Bahamas, not dying a slow frigid death out here in line, were involved that morning. At all these shows I'm in a constant state of war with myself, like half "WHAT THE HELL AM I DOING HERE WAITING AND SUFFERING" and the other half "Just hold on a little more, maybe something really good will happen and it will all be worth this pain". Happily the cooler side prevailed (or you may think of that as the crazy side, depends on your perspective heh) and I alwauys end up waiting just a little more, or coming back instead of just booking it when they release us to wait back in line. I'm ALWAYS rewarded by the end of the day and am always soso happy I waited all that time, suffering in the cold for hours on my feet. Something happens or I get really lucky (or both!), and it was always worth it :)

By afternoon today, we were released for a few hours and given the time to come back. Today was supposed to be a double pre-recording, which means artists do one pre-recording then go and change and do another, meant for NEXT week's broadcast. This saves traveling time for them, as they don't have to come back out here next week. It means they won't be here for next week's live, but this does happen every so often with the live show. However, they seemed to have skipped the first pre-recording which was supposed to be at 11am...since they told us at about 10:30am to leave and be back by 1pm. Dafuq?

Anway, Trish and I left during our short break for lunch. After wandering around a nearby (GIANT) outdoor mall, we finally just decided on kalguksoo again because it was stupid cold outside and hot noodles in a warm broth sounded beyond delicious. When we finally got our bowls...ah. So much happiness ^.^
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As is usual, after lunch we got coffee for dessert at a place called Zoo Coffee! We chose here instead of the nearby Pascucci's since we knew ALL the other hordes of fangirls would be going/already there. It was really good too! I'm glad we chose it :) Inside it was all animal-themed (shocker) and I really really hate animal prints, but hey it's cafe decor. I can tolerate that better than clothes. The cups were also animal print but made of a cool material so that saved them haha. Their menu was hilarious as well :D Like some cafes here, they had fleece blankets available for use folded in a basket, and it was warm and cozy so we spent quite a while in there just chatting and laughing and swapping stories. I'm really gonna miss this girl when we both have to leave! Were so similar in weird ways haha
At the pre-recording I got into, we saw Infinite, BAP, SHINee, Teen Top, & Tiny-G. I was disappointed D-Unit seemed to have finished their promotions...I really liked them! They are one of the few girl groups out there that don't hold this pretty princess stick-figure doll image with them. Not that I hate that or anything, so nobody attack me, but it's just same old same old. They also get REAL choreography, not high-kicking and hip-rolling and prancing in place. It's almost always the choreography that gets me interested in a group, and theirs is incredible. They all pull it off well too, which makes me want to hug both their choreographer and them for being awesome. 
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Top photos: Pre-recording shot of Infinite and the balloons they handed out as free cheering goods - Bottom photos: Line for live show and shot of SHINee during the live show performance
OMG I GOT INTO THE LIVE SHOW. THROUGH MY PLACE IN LINE. THIS WAS UNPRECEDENTED ON ALL ACCOUNTS. Again, Music Core is like Music Bank and Inkigayo...you essentially need one of lottery-won tickets to attend the live show. However, sometimes they don't use all the tickets and/or are allowed to squeeze some extra fans in to sit on the stairs in the aisles or stand in the back. This was the case today! I didn't have much hope because my number was far back (or so I thought) so I walked Trisha to the subway station after we got out of pre-recording and said good-bye to her after she collected her luggage. I walked back to the studio afterwards and wandered kind of lost until I figured I found the right line and started asking girls in line. I wish I had pictures of the looks some of these people give me when I ask them questions hahah; for every genuinely helpful person, there is another who will give me this wtf, WHAT are you? kind of look. Eventually I found my place in line by comparing numbers and asking the right questions in Korean, and it was surprisingly not that far from the front. People must have just left after the pre-recording?? Did they not know about being able to line-up for live show? Or did they not think they had a chance? Or they had prior engagements?? If I'm a complete foreigner and didn't even know much about this and I'M in line, shouldn't they all be in line too...? Ah well. Don't look a gift horse in the mouth right?

They cut us off about 15 people ahead of me so we were all sad and worried and scared... then they came back and decided to let a few more Shawols in and AH I MADE IT!!! We were all so excited when we ran in together, up this giant marble staircase and across a huge white marble second-story floor into the studio...which is massive btw. It's built like a performing arts theater more than a recording studio. It was way more than I ever expected, earlier I just stood there and asked around for the heck of it cuz what did I have to lose haha. This was going to be my last music show of my trip since I was leaving Wednesday and couldn't attend anymore on the days they would broadcast on, so I was trying to make the most of this last one. They stood us all in the very back, which was okay because the seats were tiered so we actually had a really good view of the stage not far below.

I got to see Tiny G, Secret, Two X, Nu'est, U-Kiss, Girls Day, BAP, Davichi, G.na, Infinite, 2AM, SHINee, and a few other artists. I was stuck behind three rows of girls (ones who got in before me) but I got lucky and the girls directly in front of me both decided to sit down on the floor! The seats in front are low so they can still see fine but I had a clear view.

Later on I realized I was actually like 5 rows back but apparently fangirls help each other out lol. The girls in front let the Infinite girls move up for Infinite's performance and so on for other groups and fangirls. We actually got to see some artists twice!! Turns out that second pre-recording that we didn't get to see this morning didn't happen and MBC was having them do it now, directly after the live show. They kept everyone in the audience there so we all got to see them again! Talk about an awesome last music broadcast to attend haha. I swooped a seat for myself since people kept leaving periodically. By the end all I could think was that seriously this was the best show I've been to all week. It's like a private concert and private rehearsal practices in one! With multiple artists all from different record labels lol. I felt really lucky, for getting into the pre-recording (which contrary to my posts, are NOT always a given so I was happy everytime I managed to make it in), the live show (which is NEVER a given, so I'm triply happy everytime I manage to make it in), and a SECOND pre-recording when we thought it was all over (which has pretty much never happened lol, so the energy in there was like explosive). 
When we were finally let out after that epicly long live show, I saw fangirls waiting outside the exit drive-way for their oppa's cars to come out. Surprisingly not all of the artists had those giant vans they are always in on tv shows; they were most often in regular unremarkable old sedans or soccer mom vans ^^. Idols are normal people too haha. I love it. I do remember hearing about how they were always shocked when they come to America for concerts and are picked up from the airport in limos or Hummers. Only us Americans need such flamboyantly wasteful things as Hummers...sigh. I guess they are kind of intimidating. 

I was in a good mood and had the whole rest of the evening ahead of me so I stopped at Natuur, my favorite ice cream and dessert place that Yeji had first showed to me on my last trip! A scoop of their Venus Green Tea and I was on my way again :) I had wanted to come here with Trisha but we ran out of time since she had to leave right after the pre-recording. She ended up not making her flight unfortunately, and had to wait until the next day to fly out to Japan >.<
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Top left: That awkward moment when you are deep in thought about something for awhile, then you come out of your reverie and realize you've been staring straight at someone HAHAHA. I was staring at that woman across the track apparently (this picture makes her look far, but she was really right across me) and she had finally averted her face and was hiding behind her hand by the time I came out of my thoughts LOL. I'm so sorry unknown woman, I didn't mean to be rude @.@ - The rest are shots of Apgujeong at night! The busy streets and bright lights with the crisp night air are what makes night walks here so pleasing to me :) - The middle photos are of the "scale" building I use as a landmark to turn right into the small, trendy area with NANA's, the Everysing store, and Cofioca in it. Apparently at night, it's lit up and changes color and has different graphics go across it!! SO COOL. I never knew ^.^
I really love evening walks in Seoul, the fresh air, the hordes of people, the rushing cars, the lively chatter floating in the air, and lots of lights everywhere. There are way more people my age than I ever see during the day, and it's more common to see them out in big groups of friends as opposed to the rare pair of girls or lone boy I may happen to spot during the day. The subways are so crowded, I never get the curious looks I always get during the day when it's mainly full of grandmas, grandpas, or businessmen. I'm pretty sure the looks are because I don't look like a student, businesswoman, or a foreigner, so they're wondering what the heck I am and why I'm on the subway at this time of day lol. 

I polished off my scoop of ice cream before I even hit the subway, so I decided to get off at Apgujeong (I was on the Orange Line already to get to Ilsan) and go get my favorite boba from Cofioca! 
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My heavenly Taro boba, both sides of the bus station route signs (which are almost entirely in Korean; another reason why I had been totally scared to ride the busses before), shots of the street on the bus, and of the bustling sidewalks at night with all the street vendors with food and merchandise. I'm really going to miss this so much, all the life and colors and lights that go on at night :( Especially all the potential things you can DO at night; at home, everything closes and everything is dark pretty much after a certain hour. Here, you can karaoke, drink, shop, eat, go tot he mall, go to a coffeeshop, almost ANYTHING until the wee hours of the morning. You have choices and its so awesome.
The little area of Apgujeong I spend most of my time in is CRACKING at this time of night. There are tons of people all over, young and old alike, it's so strange lol. I'm always here in the day and there are usually just some woman walking about and older male workers loading stuff, etc. 

I am finally mastering the bus system and finding its not so scary. True Seoul-ite now :D I feel like such a grown up standing with all the other grown-ups and big kids at the bus station hahah, since I've never used the bus back home. My background growing up in suburbia is killing me X.X I'm now able to read the Korean bus loops now, find the stop I want on the bus number I need, and get myself to where I need to go. I FEEL SO ACCOMPLISHED. I have now reached the transportation skill level of an 8-year old in Seoul. How do I know this? I saw down next to one when I got on the bus T.T Power Rangers backpack, homework in hand, and everything. Way to kill my excitement dude.
On the way back to the subway from the MBC Dream Center I had been waylaid at a sidewalk store by a pretty cream-colored zip-up jacket with oatmeal colored knitted accents. It was thick, made of really soft, buttery cloth and a fur-lined hood. The price tag on it said 15,000 won so I figured this was a decent price for what it was and went in to buy it. The lady instead gestured to me that it was a "setu" and said more rapid Korean. I smiled and explained I was foreign and so she did more gestures and I finally got that she meant it came in a set! I did remember seeing a matching pair of cream and oatmeal sweatpants outside next to the sweater but since I just wanted the jacket I had left the pants. I spent the next few minutes trying to clarify with her that I just wanted the pants for 15,000, I didn't want to spend anymore. But apparently the jacket and pants TOGETHER were 15,000 won! What a deal!      \(^o^)/ I was so excited. Somehow getting clothes for even cheaper than you expected, or getting more than you were expecting to get makes a purchase even better. The lady next to me even commented on how cheap that was and that the clothes were really pretty. I was even more excited by how I could understand all of it lol ^^.
I was starving by the time I reached my hotel and also tired out, so I went downstairs and had Ki-Hee oppa at the front desk help me order Kyochon delivery. Ugh, SO MUCH DELICIOUS AWESOMENESS it's not even fair. They give so much chicken I easily made dinner, breakfast, AND a snack the next day out of it. I love life right now. 
 
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Seriously, the epic flights of stairs I've been continuously grumping/exclaiming over ever since I first landed in Seoul keep on surpassing each other. This was like a SIX LEVEL flight of stairs. REALLY?!?!? I rode the escalator obviously but that escalator was still RIDICULOUSLY LONG OMG. I could've taken a power nap while I went up that thing 0.o
Music Bank day everyone! Okay so I was definitely supposed to get up at 4am but my dratted alarm decided today would be a WONDERFUL day to not go off. So I shot up out of bed at around 6am and did the whole crazy-spazzing-left-and-right-grabbing-at-random-clothes-and-brushing-my-teeth-and-finding-shoes-while-at-the-same-time-trying-to-put-in-my-contacts thing I used to do in college when I was late for morning class. Ah, such wonderfully fond memories...HA. You didn't really think I missed those practically scheduled panic attacks did you? 

The good thing is that my hair generally requires zero effort since it's straighter than a ruler and doesn't tend to frizz. I usually only throw a little wax on my bangs to make them stay, unless I decide to curl my hair that day. It is also almost impossible to tangle...I would know because several people (mostly guy friends; NICHOLAS) have tried to tangle it in the past unsuccessfully. Just to see if they could do it. Heh. Hair: 3, Boys: 0. The bad thing is that is was once again freezing outside. Also I put on zero make-up because I figured getting there asap was more important. 
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Shots of the KBS (Korean Broadcasting Station) workplace and buildings! It was really big, with lots of buildings and plaza areas, and lobbies, and entryways. Like a giant maze O.O Workplace security was also legit here, like a bank. Workers had to scan their passcards to be allowed into the buildings (not the lobby area but up into the offices and inner parts of the building)
Upon arrival, I was pretty much lost. I got off at the right station, went out the right exit number, asked a security adjusshi for directions to the KBS building and then traversed a few blocks and streets to get to my destination. But this place was huge. Like HUUUUUGE. There were a million different ways to go. I was supposed to meet Brian and Trisha here but I had no wifi and I had no idea whether they were here already or had overslept like me. I found out later it was both LOL. I ended up doing my old standby, when in Rome, do as the Romans do! I followed these two Korean girls who looked about my age and definitely weren't workers around a parking lot area and into a mini-plaza between two buildings where a TON of fans were waiting. Jackpot.

In short, I wandered and investigated and asked various girls (in three languages, no less) if they knew what was going on here and where to go to find the signs I needed to take a picture of for pre-recordings. No luck. They either didn't know or didn't understand lol. I finally met the two nicest Muslim girls who helped me get my bearings; the mass of fans who were all clustered around what looked like an entryway with a car-drop off area in front of it were waiting for the stars to get dropped off for the day so they could see them walk in. Uhh yea. No thanks. It's freezing out here, you're going to see oppas/eonnis for like 5 seconds, and I'd rather try to find my way into watching essentially what is a mini-concert by the artists with my time this morning. 

I went back up a giant flight of stairs to an upperground plaza and outdoor seating area to find the signs and finally sat down outside in the cold to wait both for my friends so I didn't miss them, and to find the people who would bring the signs. I could'nt believe I had beaten them here, at places like M!Countdown, people start coming to take photos to get on the list the night before at like 7pm. It was now almost 9am on the day of, so I all ?_?
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I was trying to find my friends and so I left the KBS area and wandered into a nearby Pascucci's to use their wifi and get a delicious Hazelnut cappuccino. - Cutest little asian boy EVER on a building nearby, holding a rod that actually extended out of the building in 3-D! I think it was supposed to be some sort of flag pole but the flag was off... - Bottom right: the girls I was with starting the SHINee sign list
Because I was there so long, a bunch of other people kept coming up and asking me for help about the signs, thinking I was korean...even actual Koreans HAHAH. It's worse than the blind leading the blind, it's the blind leading EVERYONE, even those who can see. These two nice Korean girls who I've seen at other broadcasts seemed to recognize me and came over to ask if I was cold and what time I came and if I knew where the damn sign was (haha) and I think they wanted me to come inside ad hang out with them but I misunderstand and said I was fine outside -.- We were communicating mostly in Korean and a little English, so that was probably how I misunderstood...it takes me a bit to remember what some words mean x.x They came back out again though an hour later and I joined them in pondering some more over the missing signs. I know the signs are supposed to be made by the first fan who arrives that morning/evening if it's a popular show. 

S/N: Brian told me that Music Bank isn't as popular in Korea because for some reason, Koreans don't like the show as much. It's super popular elsewhere and definitely one of the big 4 music broadcasts but for some unknown reason, they don't like going to it. Beats me lol. It's also on a Friday so lots of schoolgirls are in school. 

Eventually those girls I was hanging with discussed and then sat down and made the official list! These Japanese girls got in front of me when lining up for the name-putting-down but it doesn't matter. I was number 6!! I've been 132, 108, etc at other shows, so this was crazy.
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The incredulous masses of fans started showing up during the day and lining up
It was here at the KBS building at their t;time cafe that I first got addicted to 유자차 (yoo-jah cha). This is lemon tea, or citron tea. It's not the teabag lemon tea we have at home though, this is like citrusy, fruity, sweet nectar that is steaming hot and smells so divine you want to dive in and have a spa day. It has actual lemon pieces and pulp in it that gives it that extra flavor. 

When I discovered them later in store-bought packages (mind blown, btw. I was so excited) via Yeji giving me some as a gift, I was amazed at how they come in little sealed packages of thick liquid. You just add water to the syrupy-like stuff in the package and voila, 유자차!
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The show was incredible! They gave us all cheering ballons for free too, it was amazingly fun! (for those who are confused, in Korea balloons are/were commonly used at concerts as cheering items so the artists can see their fans in the crowd. Glowsticks are now more popular though, generally artist-specific colored ones).
Unlike other music broadcasts, Music Bank is all seated in their studio (as far as I could see and as far as I was told). Therefore, my high priority on the list was even better because this wasn't standing!! Standing (like at M!Countdown) means even if you have a low number and are high on the list, you aren't that much closer than anyone else way behind you since everyone spreads out and bunches in the crowded area anyway. So this was just epic. I was so happy I suffered through the morning, all alone, with no wifi, unable to find my friends, freezing cold and lost lol. I hope the artists know how devoted fans are. I wasn't even planning on attending a SINGLE music broadcast this trip when I planned it and look where I am now. Dafuq? How did this even happen haha. Jess and I just had success one day and I got lucky another, and then lucky again, and now I just want to keep it rolling and see how far I can take my luck. After all, when's the next time I'll be in Korea when all these artists are promoting new songs? I'm international, I don't get these every week like Koreans who live here do :_: We keep basically the same hours as the artists too, so our sleep schedules are similar. We wake up early to stand in line and queue up while they wake up early to prep and travel. Exhausting. I don't know how they do it and I now know why they are always so tired. I'm not even dancing and singing, I'm just jumping and dancing and I'm beat. They are so not human lol. 
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Mmmm yummy warm mandu lunch with Brian and Trisha on this cold windy day :)
Meeting so many international friends out here, you also become aware of dialect and region-specific slang...especially with people from America (just different parts than SoCal). I forgot what terms I used but it was really funny trying to explain myself to Trisha (who's from New York, but studies in Japan) and Brian (who's from Florida, but studies here in Seoul). I know I'm a valley girl already but hey, I grew up here what are you gonna do -.- But lots of other slang words we all used, were unfamiliar or meant different things to each of us. It's all really interesting :)
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One last 유자차 for the road! Trisha and I went shopping at COEX after we left the music broadcasting station and I got this Banana Yogurt Mask I've been wanting to try! (It's AWESOME btw, smells incredible and feels really good on your face. Once you wash it off your face is super hydrated and soft!). We both picked up these awesome zip-up hoodies there was a sale on at TOPTEN too! (COUPLE HOODIES!!! haha). They had this neat striated woven kind of threading in the fabric. I also got a men's cardigan for myself that was also on sale, since it fit really well and was made of nice material; I like men's clothes better than women's anyway, since theyre always made better and last longer.
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We also raided Etude House (of course. It's physically impossible to walk by an Etude and NOT go in -.-) and I found a SHINISTAR compact! They still have a few in some stores ^^. Also there's some pictures of Innisfree and Skinfood stuff we picked up on our Myeongdong trip
 
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Empty subway stop so I waited for my train alone; checked the table of arrival times as well so I knew when to expect the first one! I woke up perky but then about 45 minutes into the train ride, I was over..well, being concious. Took a nice nap for the rest of the trip :D
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Kiiiiind of freaked out and bewildered by how dark some of the streets were. There are ALWAYS lights on here...cuz stuff is alays open. I can't believe I'm awake when even the shops and restaurants are closed. WHAT IS GOING ON HERE.
Okay folks, today is M!Countdown Round Two. Thanks to our experience going last week and being total noobs, I now had a slightly better grasp on what to do/what to expect. I woke up earlier than ever today and was out and about well before the first light of day. In fact, the streets were the darkest I've ever seen them...ever. And when I first came here, I had mad jetlag and so was out roaming the streets at like 3am, eating a noodle houses and doing late-night grocery shopping. 

It appears to be getting colder and colder everyday. Most unfortunate for this California girl :((( I was wearing 6 layers of clothing (involving a shirt, a peacoat, and as many sweaters as I could throw on between the two), thick woolen gloves, a thick knit scarf (all of which I bought on my last trip to Korea, because the only clothes that are capable of combating Seoul weather are my Korea-bought clothes. I don't think I even posess anything I've bought in CA that could do me any good here), knee-high socks, and knee-boots. Still miserable. Yep.
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Beautiful morning views of the Han River. That is the one good thing about beating the sun; you get spectacularly tranquil sunrises.
The leg and feet warmers on the subway are a GODSEND; it feels like your sitting on top of a hot spring and all the delicious heat is just wafting up around your whole body in a heavenly sauna-like cloud. The only problem is that when you LEAVE the train you feel like you've got a block of ice permanently glued to your behind...it's so cold without the heater T.T 

The ride to Digital Media City is a lengthy one so I took a nice nap on my way there. I'm now on my way to becoming a native and can do their trick of passing the eff out until like 2 stops before their desired stop and then suddenly waking up to full alertness and getting off at the right time. I always wondered how they did that...now I can too! >:D
I once again caught a lovely picture of the sun making it's first forays into the city as it peeked over the buildings at my bus stop. I caught my bus to the Digital Media Hall and the Mnet studios quite easily; it pulled up JUST as I came out of my correct subway exit! Also, this time I managed to snap a picture of those awesome animal butts that decorated one of the walls we passed hahaha. See the tail made from the plant?! GENIUS.
Today there was supposed to be a special stage and SHINee would be singing their ballad song Aside live. Knowing this, I anticipated the throngs of people waiting already at this early hour...but still. The line was EPIC. It went all the way back across the courtyard and almost into the street. Way longer than the line for the live show last week. Once I located the correct guy, I still gave my name and last 4 digits of my phone number (how they verify it's you I guess, in case there are any disputes over someone's place in line) and took my place in line. It was SO COLD, I was seriously entertaining thoughts of frostbite and permanent damage to my extremities. It was really bad >.< I kept jumping and dancing because my feet were giving off pangs of pain, yet were simultaneously numb. I was glad for the pain though, since it meant I still had sensation in them and they weren't in fact, frostbitten. Yet. It was so cold, I wanted to take my phone out to type out some notes on how freaking cold it was but I didn't want to move my hands out of my pockets to get my phone in my purse -.- Whenever I exhaled out, the white mist from my breath was so dense it was almost opaque. And it lingered too, unlike the thin, wraith-like mist we get on our coldest mornings back home. We have to do it in the sunlight to be able to see it, but here it's such a huge dense cloud that it's like we're all puffing on cigars out here @.@

We had made plans beforehand, so I was meeting everyone here later. There were five of us and half of us didn't have wifi so it was more like a strategic battle plan deciding where to meet and when and by what statue and what to do if nobody was there, etc. Everyone except Brian that is, since Evol wasn't performing today. I got there the earliest because I wanted to try my luck (which has been good thus far) for the live show, but I underestimated the passion of Korean fans haha. Unsurprisingly, after 2 hours of suffering and contemplating just going home so I could enjoy any sort of feeling in my body again, the line got cut off about 20 people in front of me. By then it was close to meet-up time, so I walked as fast as my numb feet could take me to the Coffee Bean around the corner. 

Now, the Mnet studios are in a pretty good area for waiting because of all the shops, restaurants, and coffee places close by. Others, like Inkigayo have NOTHING around them, so you just have to sit and twiddle your thumbs all day. Luckily I had tickets for that one, thanks to Haeri haha. I chose the Coffee Bean because it was close but not as close as Holly's Coffee (a Korean chain) where all the other people who were in line with me were bound to be headed. This Coffee Bean is also HUGE (3 stories and really long) and extremely nice inside. I got my Hot Vanilla and sat down in a giant cushy chair in the sunlight to defrost. It took awhile -.- Even when I had almost a full range of movement, I could put my hand over my thighs and FEEL cold coming off of them! Like an ice cube!! I was like O.O 

So there I was, sitting in Coffee Bean listening to "Hitchhiking" when I took off my headphones to take off my scarf. I seriously thought I was going totally bonkers cuz for some reason, I could STILL hear Hitchhiking playing!!! Almost in the exact same spot as where I had left off when I took my headphones off!! I was looking around like a crazy person, and I actually put my hand to my ears to make sure the phones were out hahah. After a second I regained my still-defrosting wits and realized the girls a couple tables away were playing Hitchhiking on their phone's stereo :D Yes, don't mind the wildly flailing foreigner over here, everything's fine...
I met up with Shiho, Tina, and Trisha for the name call/number giving/etc. and after we were released (hour or so) we decided on kalgooksoo for lunch! IT WAS SO DELICIOUS OMG. All these new Korean dishes I was never able to try before and now that I have... I can never go back. It had udon-like noodles in it but flatter. They were in this totally yummy slightly-thick and opaque broth (it tasted and looked kind of like egg drop soup!!) with vegetables and egg in it. Ohhhhh man. Talk about perfect for such a cold day. I scalded my tongue trying to get as much of it into my mouth as fast as I could xD I hadn't eaten breakfast so I was starving!
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Waiting both outside and inside -.-
Back to the studio we went after Holly's Coffee for dessert. I got my sweet potato latte :) More queuing and waiting until they moved us into the studio to wait more. Hilariously, the staff came out before the pre-recording and warned us to not touch the artists during the performance. This seemed like a weird command since we are close, but not THAT close during these broadcasts. However, upon entering we saw them setting up a circular stage with us ringing it in a semi-circle. They had white boxes the staff was arranging, for them to stand on during the performance. Then I realized it was for the special stage and we would literally be A FOOT from these people. Like if I breathed too hard, they'd feel it 0.o So THAT'S why they gave the pre-performance warning lol. 

It was such an intense performance!! The artists did so well and the crowd was really awesome and fun. The mood was good; this show would be my 4th just in the past week and this was one of the really excellent performances. They were playful and hit everything cleanly, with big smiles and lots of effort despite how exhausted they must all be. 
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Awesome decor inside the Mnet studio building and the Kyochon we went to!
When it was over, none of us had gotten into the elusive live show so Trisha, Shiho, and I went for a chicken snack. Shiho was flying back to Japan this evening, so we had to make it quick! We went to Kyochon across the street, and literally struggled with getting glasses of water hahah. How many girls does it take to get a glass of water?...clearly more than three, cuz we were big fat fails ^.^ Water is a self-serve thing more commonly than not here. You go get your cups from this UV-light box that sanitizes them, and then get your water from a dispenser...except this one had lots of buttons and when we finally located the correct-looking one, we put the cup under and nothing happened. I was up first, then when I struggled, Shiho got up, and when we BOTH were struggling Trisha finally got up, and then...we were just all struggling HAHAHA. We finally realized you have to push a section to get the water to start flowing. I'm going to attribute this one to my still frostbitten brain. 

Kyochon has since become an EXTREME addiction for me T.T Their original chicken is this soy garlic crispy chicken that is OUT OF THIS FREAKING WORLD. It's one of the biggest chains in Seoul, and is considered like higher-class chicken and take-out. It's really really good chicken guys. So good I've ordered delivery for it twice already since this day. At about $13 for an order it's kind of pricey but 1) it's so worth it omg, and 2) it comes with a coke, a box of chicken radishes (which they eat with the chicken here), and about 25 wings and drumsticks. Therefore, this feeds me for at least 3 meals lol which makes it not as expensive per meal. I can't even explain the taste of this chicken, it's sweet and savory and crispy and juicy and salty and addictively delicious. Y'know, I think I was on to something when I said they put crack in the food here...
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Our cafe treats, some fun at STYLE NANDA, and the cutest little cafe we passed by on our search for the NANDA store haha. We passed endless delicious looking bubble tea shops and coffee places, but we were on a mission so we didn't stop to try them...yet :)
I spent the rest of the day having a really fun time wandering around Hongdae with Trisha! We searched out this store she really wanted to go to called STYLE NANDA. Apparently it's a really popular online site and they had just opened up their flagship store here in Hongdae! A thousand wrong turns and winding streets later, we finally located it hahah. I swear, finding anything specific in Seoul is like looking for a needle in a haystack. Or the piece of hot pepper in kimchi jjigae. Both are equally impossible, even when I'm trying to locate the pepper immediately to take it out before it makes the jjigae even spicier T.T

The store was so cute! It was like "hipster" made tangible haha. Seriously. Every wall was differently decorated; one was even a chalkboard you could write on with chalk!! There were three floors, all with different concepts and a fun (FREE!) photobooth on the bottom floor that we had some fun with. The top floor was like a giant washing machine; they actually had WORKING antique old-y washing machines up there. Giant ones too. Amidst all the racks of clothes and stuff. It was completely awesome. 

We stopped at the most adorable cafe I've ever seen (also the hugest, it was giant in a city where most coffee shops are small and built upwards). However, my phone had died earlier and alas, I was able to take no photos :( It had the cutest decor, with pages from a book papering the walls and various antique bird cages hanging and an overall crisp white and gold theme.  I had a purple sweet potato (something I can't remember, it was some made up word for a latte at this cafe lol). It was so yummy! Trisha also got this delectable strawberry tart that is a strong contender for best sweet thing I've ever tasted in my life. And I'm not really a sweets person; I can only take a few bites before it's too sweet or too heavy or too creamy, etc. However I could eat 5 of these things without a second thought. Not for the first time, I had the thought that it's good I don't live here...or I'd be rolling, not walking. 
 
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Dark streets & closed shops = it is far too early of an hour to be concious right now T.T
I woke up this morning at 4am. Really, a wonderful time to awake, up, & about. Jess was leaving today to go back to America, which I was so sad about :( She had work though, so duty called. I had no idea what I was doing about Show Champion, since until I arrived in Korea, I had never even heard of it lol. It's not as big or popular as the other four broadcasting stations, and I don't keep up too well with them anyway. IMy friends and I found stuff online for directions, and I figured I'd wing it from there and make new friends.

Unfortunately, the way my Jihachul app told me to get to Gwangnaru was extremely difficult and involved no less than three complicated transfers (these were not the easy, one-way-only-so-you-have-to-be-utterly-braindead-to-miss-it kind of transfer tunnels; these were like 18-different-directions-to-potentially-go-and-only-one-is-right-and-the-signs-are-totally-contradicting kind of transfers -.-). On the way home I found my own route home that was only 2 minutes longer than the aforementioned Route of Hell, and involved only one transfer. Candace: 1, Jihachul app: 0
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Decided to buy some coffee from a vending machine but they must adjust these things for the hour of day you buy it, cuz this thing was hot!! I've bought them several times before and they've never been so hot. It was literally burning the skin off my hands o.o I had to put on my right glove just to hold it lol. I was also waiting at the side going the wrong way on both the yellow and olive green line; good thing I checked the direction of stations on top of the doorways lol. I TOLD you the signs and stuff in the transfer were so so confusing >.<
A million turns and different ways to go in here. I'm not a subway expert but I'm not exactly a noob either; it's my favorite method of travel thus far and I've been all over Seoul by subway by now. I had to go up and down stairs and escalators over and over again when I went wrong way and had to traverse to the other side @.@ It's completely frigid outside but I definitely worked up a sweat trekking around these stations...

I have no idea how people find their way around all the little line transfers like this. The few businessmen and women I saw on my trains always knew where to go without hesitation. I guess they are used to it since this is their morning commute. But still. I'm good on the major lines, but these new lines are a whole new can of worms -.- Also, a lady totally conked the eff out on a man next to her haha it was funny cuz I watched it happen, in like slo mo. It was like a sag, tip, drop, jerk, drop again, then sloooowly KLUNK her head landed on home base :D Can't say I blame you lady.
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Touchdown in Gwangnaru, finally!! On a misty, rainy, colder than a polar bear's butt kind of morning -_____-
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The Show Champion music stage! It was pretty high-tech and fancy, even though it's the least known of the music shows. I had a lot of fun watching the screens where they monitor the performance and do close-ups and rewind and stuff :D New friends Ashley, Trisha, & her momma, and my Korean friend Tina!
Today was both a reuniting of friends and the making of new ones. But it was freeeeeeeeeezing. I know I already said that but it was so cold I feel it merits several mentionings... When I got there I searched for the sign to take a picture with but couldn't find it. I walked over to the front of the building in front of a closed coffee place where 3 Japanese girls and an American boy were sitting. I have no idea why I didn't see the white guy and ask him, but I totally didn't even see him at first >.< Maybe I was channeling "fangirl" and so I only saw the girls. I asked the Japanese girls if they were waiting for the live show or pre-recording and they answered yes. Then the boy spoke up and I was doing like a 
Today was both a reuniting of friends and the making of new ones. But it was freeeeeeeeeezing. I know I already said that but it was so cold I feel it merits several mentionings... When I got there I searched for the sign to take a picture with but couldn't find it. I walked over to the front of the building in front of a closed coffee place where 3 Japanese girls and an American boy were sitting. I have no idea why I didn't see the white guy and ask him, but I totally didn't even see him at first >.< Maybe I was channeling "fangirl" and so I only saw the girls. I asked the Japanese girls if they were waiting for the live show or pre-recording and they answered yes. 

Then the boy spoke up and I was doing like a *\(^o^)/* in my head when I realized he spoke English. He was pretty excited too, since I think he almost never meets musicgoers here who speak English. We had a fun morning chatting our brains out, since we were the lone foreigners even when more people showed up. I had to go into the media building to send my picture for the pre-recording since I needed wifi. His name was Brian and he was studying abroad here in Seoul. I was so jealous >.< Apparently he's from Florida, so we spent a good 15 minutes just abusing the freezing Seoul weather in comparison to the warm weather we both had waiting for us back home. Ah, good thing Seoul has more than enough charms to make up for its weather haha. 

More hours of queueing and wandering and asking people questions and for aid and we were back in line again. Brian wasn't waiting for the pre-recording since the group he wanted to see wasn't having one today, so he just walked around and chilled. I met some cool girls in line, Ashley (Australian teaching here in Seoul!) and Trisha and her mom (from Singapore!). You really meet people from all over, it amazes me. People from such different places and cultures all brought together by music. A lot of girls I've met here can't speak much English OR korean, but they have  still flown all the way over here. That's just scary dedication lol. I met another American
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Tina cutting up kimchi and radishes like a boss & the shikdang (restaurant) where we ate lunch! We got coffee afterwards and they were promoting a new MUSHROOM latte...uh? Well who knows haha maybe they made it good?
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My meal and Tiramisu Latte for dessert :)
We broke for lunch and me, Tina, and Shiho went out to a seollongtang place down the street. I had never had it before but it was so perfect for this cold rainy day; it was incredible! It was a semi-clear warm tasty broth with vegetables and savory meat in it. My friend Dajeong says they simmer the broth with onions and stuff in it for a whole day, which made me think of pho broth. You get a bowl of rice with it as well, and you periodically spoon rice into the broth then eat it all together with everything. First though, you put some of the rock salt on the table into your broth. I'm so glad I went with them haha cuz otherwise I would've been lost. That is what prevented me from trying many Korean dishes last time I was here; I couldn't understand what the dish was/didn't know how to eat it/some places don't really have a menu, you just have to know and order it T.T It was so good I immediately resolved to eat it again before I left.
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An edit Tina did the pictures I sent her from today! Cute, isn't it? ^^
I met another new friend upon our return from lunch! She was sitting with Brian, so we all kind of merged and became a bigger group. Her name was Trisha and she was from New York but studying abroad in Japan right now. I'm so jealous of her too T.T Little did we know that we would soon become fast friends and spend pretty much the entire next few days together, shopping, exploring Seoul, eating, and attending more shows ^^. 
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Evidence of the epic lines and masses of people there. It is nuts. The amount of people at these music broadcasts never ceases to me amaze me. I mean, I'm here cuz I don't know when I'll ever get the chance to go to these again and I have limited time here. But the majority of these people aren't foreign, so that's like super dedication or just their way of relieving school stress?
We got lucky today and saw several artists doing their pre-recordings, even though we only lined up for one. Rainbow was first, and although I don't know much about them/I don't like them cuz they utilize too much pink and baby voices, their newest song is catchy and I liked it by the end of their several takes. G.NA was next and she put on a great show with Ilhoon from B2st. Her song and dance was also very catchy and I liked it a lot. Finally after several hours SHINee came on and put on a great (and hilarious) show during their pre-recording (Jinki totally whacked himself in the face with the mic stand HAHA SO ONEW). 

Fanboys are pretty much the funniest things I've ever seen; namely Rania and Rainbow ones. This is because there are all these tall muscular guys doing fanchants to the songs in deep ass voices and screaming their names and leaping around with their huge signs hahah. Even Korean girls are smiling and laughing at them, so it's not just that I'm foreign :D

After the pre-recordings, we all filed out of the studio and came back around 4 to start lining up for the live show (starts at 6). It was around this time I realized OMFG I'M SUPPOSED TO CHECK OUT FROM MY HOTEL ROOM TODAY. The staff knew I was checking out of the double room but staying for another week in a single...but check-out was supposed to be around 2-3 pm still. It was now 4pm. I panicked and ran to the media studio to call the hotel. I tried my best to explain that I was going to come back soon and move all my luggage, which I presumed was still sitting in my double hotel room since Jess had left at 1pm for the airport. It took awhile but eventually I got my meaning across to him, whereupon he said they had moved my stuff already. Eh? I assumed he meant just my luggages, since I hadn't packed all my small stuff yet from the bathroom and counter. But it was fine, I would take what I could get! I was extremely grateful and couldn't believe it :3 I was able to stay for the live show then!

SHINee ended up winning and coming out #1 at the end of the show. They have been dominating for weeks on all the music shows and music charts now, their popularity is kind of ridiculous. They must have just shelves upon shelves of trophies and awards lol. By the end of next week, they will have become the only celebrities to have won on Show Champion 4 times. Since the first win Jonghyun did 100 push-ups, and the second win Minho did over 100 push-ups, with this third win, Onew, Key and Taemin all did pushups. Which was just hilarious in itself, since I don't think we've ever seen Key do anything more physical than shopping...
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I rushed back to the hotel after the show; even though the staff guy had said it was okay, I was still worried some miscommunication had happened or something. God was just against me though; I was JUST missing every single subway train on my way back so I had to wait forever for the next while fighting off the serious urge to yank off my shoes, chuck them in a trash bin, and go barefoot. I was wearing my most comfy pair of white sneaker wedges but after a full day spent almost entirely on my feet from 5am to 8pm, I was over it.
So I rushed myself as fast as the subways would allow me to get back to the hotel. I got there and found the receptionist and night manager had sweetly moved literally ALL my stuff, even my bathroom stuff AND the bar of soap (lol) to my new room! Even my loofah and the scraps of construction paper Jess & I had used for our arts & crafts day. It must have taken ages, I had a ton of stuff everywhere. I couldn't believe it. I was so grateful to them and although I didn't know the words to thank them specifically for moving it all, I thanked them a bunch of times before finally flopping myself down in my new room. I admit, I teared up and cried for a little bit once I took the time to survey my room. It looked exactly like my one on my last trip, I'm just one floor above exactly with numbers and everything. It was so clean and inviting and familiar and filled with good memories. I had also had a very long day; simultaneously one of the best and worst days of my life. I didn't really go into the details of how bad my freak-out over my delayed room change was, but it was bad. I was far from the hotel, had been waiting in line for hours, didn't have the right Korean words to explain to the hotel staff, had major panicky feels when I realized it was hours past when I was supposed to be out and ALL my stuff was still just sitting there in a room that needed to be cleaned. And they didn't really have a way to contact me since my phone is foreign. I was so distressed and worried >.< Luckily it all worked out!
 
Ladies & gentlemen it seems in my distress over Jess leaving me in Korea, I somehow FORGOT TO MAKE AN ENTIRE POST for 3.19.13, her last day here. I have NO idea how this happened but it is completely ridiculous. This has never happened before, me completely missing an entire batch of photos. You all know how OCD and borderline crazy I am (lol). Anyways, here it is. It will be filed under it's proper date though, so it won't appear at the top of the blog page >.< 미안!

And on to fun stuff! Today was Jess's last day, as she was flying out tomorrow :( It was a toss-up whether it would be spent at Edae or Myeongdong (two of the places left on our to-do list this trip), and she chose Myeongdong so off we went. Myeongdong is located pretty much directly in the center of Seoul, not far from Hongdae, Ehwa, Itaewon, and the like. 
We had passed this little shop on our way transferring from the Green line to the Light Blue Line before and always meant to stop to try it. Today was the day haha, so we bought some...whatever they are. They looked and tasted like sweet crumpled waffle cones coated in chocolate and sprinkles. I got a green tea chocolate one (surprise surprise ㅋㅋ) and Jess got a white chocolate with rainbow sprinkles one. 


We had both seen the mallet lying on the counter and had been vaguely wondering what purpose it served, when the man took out my green tea...thing...and then whacked it with the mallet!! And again and again, until it was in lots of yummy little eatable pieces. Ah ha, so THAT's how you eat something that is roughly the size of a grapefruit lol. Munching on our breakfast treats, we rushed to catch the next transfer subway a few floors down. 
One of the things we had been looking forward to finding in Myeongdong was the custom Converse store! I've been to Myeongdong several times before but had never been looking for anything in particular so I had never noticed the Converse store around. We located it alright, but the workers inside told us the custom part of the store (second floor) didn't open until 1pm. Well then. We had a good couple hours to kill. In the awesome, colorful, bustling, cosmetics store-laden, food vendor-filled, clothing stands-packed area known as Myeongdong. Gosh, what a chore... :D
We wandered, doing some idle shopping and I bought some awesomely unique stud earrings at a shop. They sell a lot of earring pairs here that include a third earring for a conch piercing or helix piercing. It's awesome since I have both now, and can have a third earring in those higher piercings to match the lobe ones :) We got ugly hot dogs and chicken vegetable skewers from a food cart and munched on our snacks in a state of supreme happiness. I was chatting with a Japanese lady and her high-school daughter who were eating standing next to us at the same cart. They didn't know much English but I used the little Japanese I knew, and they did vice versa with English lol. They were very sweet; the Japanese lady even gestured towards my clothes and told me I was so stylish, and she liked my whole outfit! I was so flattered... that's such a nice thing to say especially to a complete stranger x) <3
Obviously after eating a savory snack, now we need bubble tea! We hunted down this bubble tea shop I had come to last time I was here that was AMAZING. It was called Gong Cha and I have no idea what Gong means, but I know "cha" is "tea" in Korean (similar to "ocha" in Japanese!). It's extremely popular, and there was a massive crowd inside + line going out the door. Nonetheless, they were efficient and the line moved relatively quickly. I can't remember the drink I always order there because I kind of just know where it's place on the menu is, find it, and read it off to the serving girl but its a green tea (actual green tea, not like my lattes lol) milk something with white jelly. 

It is THE BOMB. Cofioca is still #1 in my heart, but the drink I get at Gong Cha has just an entirely different taste all it's own. It's unique and delicious. After getting my drink, I went upstairs to find a table rather than wait with Jess and be jostled and glared at by the massive crowd downstairs by the bar. What's nice about the usual multi-story structure of many coffee shops, restaurants, and clothing stores here is that once you go up, you usually have a nice view of the surrounding area to people-watch or daydream or just to enjoy a nice bright backdrop while you chat. I like it better than when the coffeeshops go belowground instead of up.
We went back to the custom Converse store now that it was past 1pm, only to be told (by a different sales associate than the one we asked this morning) that the custom studio WASN'T EVEN OPEN TODAY. DAFUQ. We can't exactly argue with them and I didn't know how to explain about the associate who told us it was open at 1pm in Korean, so we just left. We did some more minor shopping around so Jess could buy more gifts to bring home, before we headed back to the subway.

Another thing I had told Jess we needed to try before she left was Manoffin, a cupcake shop located in most subway stations. They have the most adorably delectable cupcakes EVER. And I mean EVERRRR. They make me want to just buy one of each and preserve them in a glass case to use as decoration around my room, they are so perfect and cute. Last time I got one of their staple cupcakes, Black Prince (which was black tea-based) and was definitely a cupcake. This time I got an Almond Proposal cupcake, which had a texture more like a muffin...not surprising I suppose, given the shop's name lol. I forget the name of the one Jess got but hers was SUPER adorable and cute too. We were reluctant to eat them because they were so pretty to look at but eventually hunger won out. As expected, they were delicious. And more filling than you would think actually...must have been the muffin-consistency. 
Some tv and bedrest later, we headed out again to meet Haeri at Seullong station for kbbq. She had found a new kbbq place lately that she really liked (and we love kbbq haha) so we were excited. We chatted all the way to the place and then ordered this wine-soaked samgyupsal (I think it was wine? Or some other Korean alcoholic equivalent) that had whole peppercorns on it. It was SOOOOO GOOOOOOD. Just the smell of it cooking was mouth-watering enough. Hanging out with Haeri is always lots of fun, as she's such a cheerful and sweet person. Cheerful people like her bring out the super bubbly valley girl in me haha, I always get so excited >.< 

Haeri took us to a nearby store that sold all manner of things from pens and office supplies, to bedroom essentials, to phone chargers and cases. It was such an awesomely handy store, the kind you want to have right next to wherever you are living haha. It's like Staples, Fry's, and Target rolled in one cute little place! We went to Ediya Coffee down the street afterwards for dessert and talked over our drinks. We ended up thumbing through this massive Korean fashion magazine as well, exclaiming over clothes, pretty models, and who had or hadn't gotten plastic surgery done xD Well, we ARE girls...

Haeri and I went on a hilarious hunt for a restroom later, consulting this funny treasure-map kind of area sketch in Ediya at length to find the restroom. We trekked all the way outside, around the block corner, and up into this shady little office building lobby to find a bathroom...only to find there was no toilet paper. After ALL that. I just held it until we got home later that night haha. I'm blaming being so pre-occupied with needing to pee that night for forgetting entirely about writing this post. It was a good day though :)
 
Good morning! Today was the day we went to Hongdae. We had planned to meet Jess's cousin Ashley and her youngest little boy at Yeoksam station first so we could all grab some breakfast (I think he's 2-3? He's totally epicly adorable and smart as hell). 
Obviously Paris Baguette is always my choice for breads and meals on the go, since they package everything individually. And it's just awesome. 

I was adventurous today and tried new ones I hadn't tried before. I got some Sweet Pea Bread, a Spinach & Ham tart, and a Roasted Garlic puff pastry kind of thing. I liked the tart and garlic thing (the garlic is cooked btw, it's super soft and delicious, not hard and spicy)! The pea bread was far too sweet for me, which seems to be a common theme for me here in Korea. A lot of foods I don't expect to be sweet (like garlic bread chips) are super sweet (like honeyed or syrupy tasting) and it just throws me off/turns me off. I'm more of a salty kind of person, as opposed to sweet (STEVEN IM LOOKING AT YOU heh).
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Oh also, there was this hilarious Squid Ink Bread at Paris Baguette...it's like black and everything and has little "squid" tails poking out the sides hahah. Speaking of hilarious, we saw this pretty in pink Hyundai just parked randomly on a street in Hongdae. Never seen that before lol.
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The streets of Hongdae! Some cool buildings and the biggest H&M I've ever seen. We didn't go along the main drag really, and since I've been here several times it didn't much. We searched the side streets and alleys looking for the HK Cafe instead. This one building was getting demolished with terrific noise and lots of spectators. It was actualy really cool, I was spellbound for awhile. Stuff was just falling everywhere and the crane was like a god; whatever it touched, it immediately crumbled and came apart. NUTS.
Hongdae is just such a really cool place to be. The atmosphere is different, as are the people. I talked about this in my last trip's blog, but people just come here to hang and spend time with friends. There's no rushing, no grumpy old people, or irritable office workers. There's lots of street food vendors and cheerful chatter and colorfully dressed folk. There's lots of chic cafes, prettily designed shops, random modern buildings, and brightly lit bubble tea places. Don't know how to explain it really, so you'll just have to go visit yourself ^.^
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I bought an adorable HK mug, the asian kind with a lid (to keep the heat in longer). If you look closely at the pic, you can see the white lid with the Hello Kitty poking up on top!
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Sitting inside "adorable" made manifest
After about an hour of searching the streets, checking directions on phones and trying to ask passerby for direction (I knew what to ask in Korean but the people I kept stopping were foreigners -.- So when I finally WANT someone who speaks only Korean, all you give me are foreigners?? COOOOOOOL), we finally found an information booth and got directions from them. And thus, we FINALLY arrived at the ridiculously cute Hello Kitty Cafe. It is seriously SO CUTE. It was decked out in pink everywhere, with Hello Kitty shapes incorporated into everything possible. I felt like a little girl all over again!!! The drinks were so adorable, I sipped it slowly and carefully with my straw so the design didn't get messed up haha. I had my usual green tea latte, iced. I have to say, as many GT lattes as I've had, this was definitely one of the better ones. I was surprised. Most places with too much hype generally have mediocre quality goods but this one was really really good!
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Wandering the streets! Plus some random army guys I saw crossing a road, marching in perfect synchronization. Amazing.
After the Cafe, we wandered around a bit and did some street shopping! The infestation of Hongdae doesn't really start until around late afternoon (when all the students get out of school, as I told Ashley), so the streets weren't too bad.  Many clothing/hat/jewelry/etc stands and food carts don't even set up until then and the crowds are totally managable. Nighttime is a different ballgame...by the time we were leaving Hongdae it was already nearing that time and getting super congested everywhere. I love Hongdae at night even more though, because of the energy it brings to the already awesome atmosphere of the area. I also have a thing for lots of different colored lights from various shops, stands, and eateries lighting up the streets and the people walking, it just seems like there's so much life coming from all directions. Hard to explain >.<
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I WANT THIS SHIRT SO BAD. But I didn't go in to ask the price because I'm 99.9% sure it's more than I'd want to pay for it lol.
Before leaving we got dinner at my FAVORITE Abiko Curryhouse (thanks to Yeji who first showed it to me!!). I honestly would do illegal things for this curry. Like the strawberry latte from last night, I have no idea what they put in this stuff but it's addicting as hell! You want more already WHILE YOU'RE STILL EATING IT. I got my beef curry with chicken cutlet and garlic crisps. Omnomnomnomnomnom. Ashley and Jess enjoyed it a lot as well and agreed that it was booooooomb curry :) Ashley even ordered a to-go set for her husband. With full, happy bellies we headed back to the station to ride back home.
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I've noticed a lot on my walks that the skyline looks different from my last trip and I've finally pinpopinted why; the trees are bare. Last time I was here, it was fall so many trees were a riot of color and blocked the buildings when I took pictures. Now they are bare and I can see everything clearly!
We relaxed the rest of the day until we got hungry again later that night. Too lazy to go back out, we ordered delivery with the aid of the desk staff and happily munched on pork cutlet (and curry in Jess's case) from my favorite delivery place. Jess said the curry was SO good at Abiko, that's all she was craving then hahah so she got curry pork cutlet from the place. I TELL YOU, THEY PUT SOMETHING IN THE CURRY. It's crazy addicting @.@
 
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New bunny socks and a new blue hair bow! :)
Today we were headed to Gayang, to attend Inkigayo with Haeri! Haeri was a former girl group celebrity, and thus has lots of connections with the groups, their managers, and the broadcasting systems. At the young age of 20, she is also running a company called Kompany93 that sells albums and other merchandise!
Inkigayo is one of the major 5 broadcasting stations in Seoul. It is also the most difficult to get into, due to the small studio space. To get tickets you have to win them via lottery, which I think I talked about in my earlier post on M!Countdown. Haeri got us those magic tickets without the lottery, because she is awesome. When we arrived, we went straight to front amidst hordes of lined up people (WITH tickets, I couldn't believe how many people there were just filling up the entire side of the street waiting to get in). We got our tickets straight from 2AM's manager O.o We waited in our appropriate line for our seat numbers for awhile, then we headed in! 
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Inkigayo stage at the very beginning and at the end! Also a random shot of another rare skateboard sighting in Seoul :D
THE LIVE SHOW WAS INCREDIBLE!! 2AM, SHINee, Nu'est, BAP, U-Kiss, Speed, Girl's Day, Rainbow, Lee Hi, Nine Muses, G.NA, Rania, Peppertones, VerbalJint, D-Unit, Lady's Choice, & more made for a great line-up. It's really fun getting to see all that goes on behind filming these live shows, with all the cameras, television screens doing replays or zoom-ins, cameramen, make-up people, the MC's pacing around practicing their lines, light and sound checks, clean-up crews after each performance, etc. I just feel like I'm in wonderland haha. 
Afterwards we all went for chicken with Haeri's friend Dayeon (Diane)! It was freezing outside so we while we ate we all had a good laugh at the crazy fangirls lining the streets in the cold wind waiting for a glimpse of oppa...in a car...with TINTED WINDOWS...for like 0.5 seconds. Seriously people? YOU CAN'T EVEN SEE THEM. They would occasionally all run from side to side like chickens with their heads cut off whenever people started screaming- which was basically everytime a car came out of the parking lot for the studio. Aish. 

But anyways, back to the good part. The chicken was bomb, we got three kinds. We got baked garlic bone-in and a chili sauce & regular crispy boneless chicken! SO YUMMYLICIOUS NOMNOMNOM. I struggled for a bit in the beginning, because opposite to the American way of eating chicken wings, grabbing a wing and stuffing it into your mouth (which was my first impulse until I realized it'd be perceived as vulgar), I had to learn "chicken couture" as Haeri cutely put it ^.^ There were pairs of tiny tongs and a fork for each person, and you use those to hold and pull off pieces of chicken to eat. So your hands don't get dirty of course. While I deeply appreciate the sentiment behind this (since I am one of those OCD people who hates eating messy foods in public, like ribs), the chicken smelled and tasted SO GOOD all I really wanted to do was grab one with my hand and yank off a huge bite. Instead, I daintily placed delicate bite after delicate bite into my mouth like a proper Korean girl and washed it down with Chilsung. No wonder they're all so thin here T.T
After chicken Jess, Haeri, & I trekked it back via subway (Haeri lives in Seulleong, which is the subway stop RIGHT next to Yeoksam). JEss & I got back to the room but didn't feel like staying in. We were both craving something sweet, so we headed out in search of a coffeeshop that was still open (coffeeshops here seem to vary in terms of hours- some are open super early but close early and some open late but close late. And some both open early and stay open late, and one in particular I've noticed opens SUPER late and closes SUPER early. I know this because I have been attempting to try this damn coffee place for a total of 8 weeks now and am STILL UNSUCCESSFUL. Tragic). Since it was pretty late, we ended up at my usual Pascucci's. We hemmed and hawed but we were both eyeing their new drink, a Strawberry Gelato Latte. It's a smoothie-like drink, and was pretty much the tastiest thing I've ever had the good fortune to sip on. No, seriously. Jess and I were just silent as we were sipping them, so as to put all our attention towards fully enjoying the drink and savoring it's taste as it deserved to be savored *.* It was cool and sweet and with the scoop of strawberry gelato, it was so creamy! Ugh. The price tag it comes with has prevented me from buying it again (7,000 or 7,500 won, I can't remember). But I may have to sneak another one before I leave...ugh. Just writing about it is making me want another one. What the hell did they PUT in that thing, I'm like a crack fiend...