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I look like a ghost! Haha here's some shots of the first round of our samgyupsal feast. Also how much do you love that right next to the water cups on the table, THERE ARE SHOT GLASSES. Because they are as commonplace as drinking water clearly. If casual drinking were as prevalent in America, I feel like we might have less problems with all the bad drinking-involved incidents. Like the theories about changing the drinking age and it having an effect on lessening underage drinking/binge drinking. As a person who was underage not long ago, I can say this idea definitely has merit. A lot of kids only underage binge drink because it's not legal. It's just a fact.
Today I met Dajeong for a double kbbq feast! We had both samgyupsal and marinated pork, along with the egg stew and spicy soybean soup. We had a few struggles when getting our drinks from the soda machine...Dajeong slightly nudged the ice trigger and this DELUGE of ice came crashing down and spread all over the floor hahaha, her face was the funniest thing ever. It was like this "I DIDN'T DO IT" face, so cute. Our food was delicious! Dajeong says I eat like a Korean now that I know what to do with everything on the table and how to eat different things properly. For some reason that really pleased me haha; I'm so used to being the bumbling foreigner, forever embarassed all the time because native people here expect me to know what to do/where to go, but I don't. 
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Coffeesmith is one of the few Korean coffeehouses I haven't tried yet! It had a very casual, minimalistic, and almost rustic feel to the decor. I had my usual :) Isn't it cute?
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I've mentioned before how I love when coffeeshops are on upper floors over here. The walk up is a bother, but getting to have a bird's-eye view of the streets and street vendors you are so used to walking by is fun in itself. It's like a completely different perspective; everything looks familiar but different. Does that make sense? It's like looking at your bedroom from between your legs, upside down. You know in your mind that you are looking at your familiar bedroom, but it looks like a completely foreign place...no? Am I the only one who does this?? xD
We talked for awhile about the differences in the Korean language and English language, one of our favorite topics because Dajeong (like my friend Yeji!) shares my interest in linguistics. There are so many small nuances in both languages that make it difficult to explain certain phrases. We were both glad that we didn't have to learn the opposite language hahah, because we each thought the other language was complicated. 

After lunch we got coffee at new Coffeesmith down the street. Dajeong was just commenting on how the place seemed new as we walked up the stairs to the second floor (where the Coffeesmith was), and then we walked straight into a sign that proclaimed that it was the Grand Opening of this branch :D Good call Dajeong! Over our drinks she shared some seriously funny stories about her being in the US that I won't share to save her the embarrassment lol. They were hilarious though ^.^
After coffee, I headed out back over to the subway. I had to meet my friend Yeji back at Sinchon but first I had wanted to stop by Namdaemun. I had previously planned Namdaemun for today because I wanted to buy last-minute gifts but given how packed my suitcases were already, I just looked today. I didn't spend much time there, since if I lingered too long I was bound to buy something haha. Back by Yonsei University I was struck by the amount of people crossing the street opposite me. 

It was around 6pm and there was this MASSIVE OUTFLOW of students coming out of Yonsei. Wtf? It appeared that this was when school normally ended for them, probably only for a break before coming back to study more. I know when I was in college, there would be students who had classes at 5 or 6, but it was rare. Most classes were in the afternoon and we ended then. This was like, the entire university all not ending classes until this late. Daebak 0.o
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My epic search for wifi in the FREEZING bitter cold ended when finally after walking for ages and stopping at no less than 15 different potential coffeeshops, I found a Coffee Bean with wifi I could use from outside (Dr. Beans LOL). Wifi here is not consistent. I have been to a Starbucks by my hotel and there was no wifi, but the Starbucks by the Mnet center had super fast free wifi. The Coffee Bean by the Mnet center however, had ZERO wifi and this was had wifi so strong I didn't even have to go inside to use it. Others, like Holly's, have wifi but it's locked and you need a password. There is almost always some form of Ollehwifi or Twifi anywhere you go, but those are Korean wireless companies and you need to pay for them or have a Korean phone. I was trying to get wifi so I could contact Haeri, who I was supposed to get sushi with tonight
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This time I was smart; I bought TWO tornadoes at the same time to save myself the inevitable trip back for the second one after I ate the first haha. You have never seen such a happy happy girl as me as I sat down in the subway station and munched on them. Like, EVER. I got lots of weird looks but hey, I'm more than used to them. Keep em coming folks haha. - Also some more cute earrings I picked up and a shot of the Han River bridge lights as we crossed over. So pretty!
Now that I'm leaving again soon, I took another moment to appreciate subway travel. I always love it so much and appreciate it's efficiency when I first get here, then I get desensitized to it and take it for granted. I got a serious case of the giggles watching everyone on the subway tilt this way and that, swaying backwards and forwards then backwards again, all in unison. Most people are on their phone, so they aren't paying much attention to the abrupt swaying of the train; it often catches a businessman or adjumma by surprise and they have a near wipeout, which is always entertaining :D But what really gets me is the communal swaying lol. It's just so funny! I feel like you have to be there to know what I'm so giggly about. All these strict adjusshis or power-suit wearing women, and it's like were all on the same kiddie ride at an amusement park.

It's also pretty hilarious how all the grandpas and grandmas with gnarled hands and white/no hair play games like Farmville on their giant Samsung phones. They're all super super into them too, focusing hard with their faces close to the screens; it's adorable!
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I had showered this morning and it was late by the time I arrived back at my hotel, so I just wanted to wash my face and go to bed. However, I had packed most of my stuff already since I was leaving tomorrow...including my face wash T.T It was then that I blessed the freebies I got from the cosmetics stores and handouts from people on the street, because I still had 2 packets of make-up removing wipes and cleansing wipes to use instead :) I made myself some citron tea to relax, planned out my (last!) half-day tomorrow, and then passed out ^^
Before I climbed the stairs back up to the surface streets, for the first time ever I helped a foreigner with directions!! Haha, generally I am seen as native (read: not fluent in English) but this guy didn't seem to mind. He was standing in front of the (supremely confusing and utterly useless) subway station map with his phone open to something he was looking for, with this confused and slightly pained expression. I was thinking 'heyyyy I know that look!!' haha, it's the one where you know where you need to go, and how to get there but you can't seem to equate your directions in English and these directions in Korean. So you are stuck. And the pained part of the expression is because you know you need help but you can't exactly stop any passerby to ask for assistance because they won't understand a thing you're saying. So again, you're stuck. However, he flagged me down very nicely and asked for help finding an e -mart indicated on his phone but without an exit number. I didn't know of any e-mart but I told him of the Lotte Mart I go to at the top of 6! He looked so happy and relieved haha, then thanked me and said cheers.
 
One of the many wonderful things about the Korean-style heated floors is that when I wake up in the morning, I not only don't have cold feet when I get out of bed, I can warm up my socks by laying them on the floor so they are toasty when I put them on. Do you know what a wonderful feeling putting on warm, toasty socks is?? It's like putting on a sweater fresh out of the dryer :3

I went to the Top10 store in Gangnam this morning to exchange two jackets I had bought for a different size. I still have not figured out their sizes there, since I was unaccustomed to clothes in Korea HAVING size (generally everything there I have bought in the past is what is called a "free size". In layman's terms, you either fit this hybrid cross between an XS/M, or you are SOL. I say cross between XS and M because some areas are super small but others are really loose. For example, I fit most clothes in Korea but often the shoulders or chest area are too tight. They are often really long vertically though, since it is the style there to have shirts that sometimes go down to your knee area. It varies from article to article, but apparently the 105 size I got at Top10 was like an XXL or something lol. I exchanged them for 95's). I ended up walking into Top10 before it was even open, although how I was supposed to know that I don't know. The doors were unlocked and workers were moving about inside, so I came in. I went upstairs to the counter where a female worker was standing, whereupon she (I'm assuming) told me in Korean that they weren't open yet. I played the dumb foreigner because I was on a tight time schedule today, and didn't want to have to come back lugging my big bag of jackets. She was really nice, even though she didn't really know what to do lol. She tried explaining again Korean and did the floundering-don't-know-what-to-do-shy-Korean thing they do whenever I speak only in English and they don't know any English. It's cute ^^. I bought another of the men's cardigans I got last time at the Top10 at COEX, since it fit so well and is made so nicely. And is still only 10,000 won!! 


The KoreaPost office I went to mail a postcard is so scarily efficient, I actually had to ask the elderly guard/helper guy wandering around what the heck I was supposed to do. I was intimidated by the office lol. There were 5-6 workers along the long desk to help you but there were no lines. Zero. Instead, there were tons of chairs and people seated in them; think like the pharmacy at Kaiser, where you get a number and wait for your number or name to flash up on the screen and then you go up to the counter. It was like that here, but you take a number and then wait until one of the desks had your number flash above the station. In the meantime, I was left to sit in comfort and wonder why I don't live here again. WONDERFUL. Every US post office I have ever had the misfortune to go into has inevitably had a horribly expected long line snaking around that takes forever because there are only one or two people at the desk. Who are usually very rude and cranky and as unhelpful as possible. I'm sorry you hate your job but that is NOT my fault >.< No offense to any respectable postal workers out there, I know you are numerous. I just haven't had the good fortune to ever meet any of you :(
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Thank you thank you Tina for showing me how to properly eat seolleongtang!! Without you, I would've been lost- and totally eating this in the wrong way hahaha. The staff would think I was retarded AND crazy. It wasn't until I was inspecting all the different pots on the table that I saw the salt and remembered I was supposed to put it into the soup T.T No wonder this broth tasted like water, and here I was thinking, damn, that other place we went to last time was way better hahah. Once the salt and pepper were in, it tasted as delicious as I remembered.
Since I had kalguksoo twice already, I wanted seolleongtang (my other favorite Korean dish) a second time as well! Dajeong had looked up places for me around Gangnam the other day, so I searched around the back streets near Sinnonhyeon station before I came across the place she had mentioned. I'm so so thankful that I can read Korean relatively fast now, so I'm not standing in the middle of the street, lips moving, and my eyes fixed on a sign that is probably advertising a random brand of ramen or something hahah. The looks people gave me were weird enough @.@

I feel like the young guy who greeted me thought I was Korean but my brain was so fuzzy that when he spoke to me, it took me a minute or two to get my bearings. It was the weirdest thing, I think I was still distracted from having spent the last half hour focusing solely on my Korean reading skills. I understood him and knew how to respond but for some reason it caught me off guard, so I just stood there vaguely saying ah yes...just one person....ah yes...seolleongtang...ah yes okay, I'll sit over here...T.T He probably thought I was retarded lol. Whatevs. I asked him in English for the dish I wanted, partially because I can't pronounce the 15 character long name of the dish and partially so the staff knows I'm foreign and not some depressed random girl eating seolleongtang all by herself. FT Island playing while I waited for my food, which made me happy. They aren't as big in Korea so you don't hear too many of their songs playing in public places. 
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I went back to the same store I had bought my black knapsack from the other day to buy two more adorable bags. I didn't know if their 50% sale would be ending soon, so..seize the day!! The store's name is Naughty Kitty if I remember correctly...I don't know what's up with their store name choices here haha but clearly they don't understand the implications in English. And I thought Kinki Robot was the worst they could do...
I spent some time afterwards wandering around and shopping. I had wanted to go back to the store where I bought my knapsack for 10,000 and I wasn't disappointed by the bag selection they had today! I was having lunch with my friend Yeji today so I headed over to Sinchon. She is studying for her civil service/government position placement exams or something of the kind, which are EXTREMELY difficult. She was explaining how they work to me over lunch, and I was like Mind = Blown. It makes the bar exam look like a first-grade spelling test. (No offense to any potential or past bar exam takers, it was just a joke!) 

Seriously though. The people here take this test over and over again, and the whole series of tests take almost a full year. So people fail over and over and take it over and over. You have to study and take the first part of the first test, then the second part of the first test a few months later. Then you have to take the first part of the second test, the second part of the second test, and the third part of the second test, and so on. And if you don't pass ANY of these parts, you fail and stop right there. You can only continue if you pass each part. And in the final part, only 50% of the test-takers are accepted into the government sector they desire to be in. THAT MEANS AFTER ALL THAT WORK, TIME, STRESS, AND EFFORT IN CRAMMING ALL YEAR, ONLY HALF OF THE ALREADY CUT-DOWN AMOUNT OF PEOPLE WHO MAKE IT TO THE END WILL GET THEIR JOB. Yeji said she wakes up at 7am and studies studies studies until 11pm when she goes home and eats and then wakes up to do it again the next day. And the next. And the next. Goddamn. No wonder everyone's smarter in Asia O.O Yeji will pass the test though, I have faith in her! My eonnie is a smart cookie :) She wants to work in international relations, and she will be WONDERFUL at it. 
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Yes, I AM drooling AGAIN over their adorably chic and elegant cafeterias. Apparently cafeterias here are like modern sit-down restaurants and cafes. Seriously! They are so cute. Cafeterias at home consist of plain scratched plastic tables and benches, with kitschy decor. Swell.
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We got jjajangmyun, a popular Chinese dish (black bean sauce over noodles). Yeji ordered me some fried mandu (dumplings) and pork with this yummy sweet chili sauce on them too! Last time I was here, we ate at the Western side cafeteria, which is on the opposite site of the building. This was the Eastern side cafeteria, but still had a Western food window nonetheless. I was DYING over their food return area; it had a conveyor belt that you just plop your tray on and it moves it along, like a plate of sushi. There were little cut out holes to put your spoons, forks, and chopsticks in, all marked by a little sign with a spoon, fork, or chopsticks! IT WAS SO CUTE, I was freaking out so hard Yeji was cracking up haha. I have no idea why that tickled me so much; I think it was the chopsticks marked hole lol. It was so Asian and perfect. We would never have that in America and I wish we did!
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Shops and restaurants in the Sinchon/Edae area I saw as I walked around. It's so busy and colorful here, with funny shop names, unique building designs, and the common multi-stacked thin, tall buildings (with like 5 different cafes/restaurants/stores one on top of the other going up vertically). Trying to practice and read the signs in Korean keeps it interesting! I know I'm still a highly inexperienced traveler and all, but I really do think Seoul has a unique flavor that's all its own.
After we ate, we got coffee at her university's coffee shop with ridiculously low student prices (cuz of course, they have that too. They have a FLOWER shop and hair salon in their university. What do they not have... @.@). It's so awesome the university really tries to make it easier for students by making the food and coffee so afforable. When they give "student prices" at UCSB, it was more like "here, take 50 cents off. Aren't we so generous?". Here, they give you whole trays of food for a couple thousand won, as opposed to the 8,000 or higher you'd be paying otherwise. Yeji had to get back to studying so she walked me back to the front and then I headed off to Edae. Thanks for making time to meet with me Yeji!! <3
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I wandered into this GIANT Artbox on my way to Edae. The pill looking things in the bottles are actually small capsules with scraps of paper in them. You are supposed to write on them once a day for a year. They have smaller bottles, for a month's worth or tiny ones with just a week's worth of capsules. Really cute! Also hamburger notepads and yummy candy bins :)
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Like Japan, they take recycling and separation of trash seriously here. Not only are there NEVER any trashcans anywhere in public (so I have to hang on to my trash pretty much all day until I get home), when I DO finally find a rare trashcan, they are often like these ;_; They are color coded and I DONT KNOW WHAT GOES IN EACH ONE. So I'm too scared to put my trash in one, in case it's only for glass or only for combustibles, or only for electronics or something. I DON'T KNOW, I'm American. The extent of my recycling knowledge is blue bin = recycling. The bins are also tiny here. These were bins for restaurants and stuff O.O The bins we have at my RESIDENTIAL HOME are like three times the size of these lol. The restaurant trash bins at home are like small houses.
Edae is only one stop over from Sinchon, so I just walked horizontally from Yonsei. I love Edae in the same way that I love Hongdae. I love the atmosphere and the vibrance coming from the area. It's not quite like Hongdae though, which is a more mellow hang-out kind of place for boys and girls. Edae, in accordance with its proximity to the all-girls Ehwa University, is a girlier version of Hongdae. It has tons of girls clothing stores, heaps of cosmetics stores (often you see the same exact store only a few stores down from the first one), and tons of jewelry and shoe vendors all over. Everything is really pretty and cute, and obviously targets girls. It is similar to Hongdae also in it's maze of streets with endless shops going in all directions. It's easy to get lost! 
I made a most happy discovery of my favorite tornadoes as well! The adjusshi manning the stand sold ugly hotdogs (and normal corndogs) as well as sausages. He also had a whole collection of seasonings to put on the tornadoes after they were done, unlike the last cart I bought them from. I used an onion & garlic powder on mine :) It was SO YUMMY SO YUMMY SO YUMMY. Like heaven in little crispy tasty bites :3 I could sit and eat these things forever, so it's probably good that I don't live here. Just writing about them is making me want some SO BADLY. I can't even explain it. Yes it sounds good when reading about it, but there's something about them when you're actually munching on it that is just so...GOOD. It's addicting, like all the street vendor food here T.T
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Chicken & beer are so common and popular, there is term for them Haeri told me about. I can't remember what it is exactly, but it's literally a combination of the words for beer and chicken. THEY GO TOGETHER SO WELL, THEY HAVE BECOME ONE WORD. - Also some more shots from around the streets of Edae. With all this in your face, can you kiiiiind of start to understand how I end up shopping so much??
Pretty much the most common lower body clothing I see here on women are these leggings/skirt combination articles. The skirt is attached to the leggings. They are most often a short, tight pencil skirt-esque kind of skirt made of the same material as the leggings. Occasionally I see a flared or other variation on these...skeggings? I have never seen them before I came here to Korea, so I was kind of taken aback the first time I saw them lol. However, TAKE HEED AMERICAN LADIES. This is how you are supposed to wear leggings; they are not pants. I repeat, THEY ARE NOT PANTS. It's one of my biggest pet peeves ever. Wear a long shirt that covers your butt or wear shorts or a skirt over them. There is NOBODY who wants or needs to see that much of your butt on any given day. Seriously I don't care who you are. It's not pretty.
I made my way back to the main drag of Edae and walked towards the subway. I had miraculously managed to not buy a single thing yet, other than my first Tornado when I first arrived. I had fun browsing and window shopping, but talked myself out of buying anything that caught my eye and I actually considered getting. As a reward, I bought a second Tornado because the first really did nothing but make me want another one immediately hahah. 
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My Etude House goodies + samples and free mask, and the HK perfume I bought Jess from there! Jess loves Hello Kitty ^^. I also got my favorite hand cream from Missha, with a free face-cleansing wipe pack they added to my bag. Before I entered the subway station I passed this large group of young adults who were animatedly chatting with these two white foreign guys (they sounded German) in completely broken and random English. They were so excited about it though, it made me smile. More kept joining the group too. I had heard that many young people, upon finding out that you speak English, will immediately strike up a conversation with you in English so they can practice. I think that's so awesome!! However, I'm always out and about during the day so I generally encounter the older generation and they are either suddenly afraid or look at me like I'm a bug if I speak English lol. So this was a nice thing to witness.
Of course, I AM leaving the country just a few days so I stopped by an Etude House and a Missha on the way to the station and picked up some last minute things I wanted to take back. I was planning on stopping by the Gangnam Underground Shopping Center on my way back to Yeoksam too, so I could look for a carry-on back to use on my way home. I had had to check-in my carry-on bag on the way over to Korea and somewhere in transit it had ripped :( 
Of course, I should have known better -.- The Shopping Center is dangerous. I walked into the Center, full of good intentions and firm convictions. I left with 3 shirts, 4 sweaters/cardigans, a duffel, several boxes of citron tea, and a most interesting collection of adorable earrings. Wah. At least I accomplished my original mission of finding a carry-on?!? Lol. It just goes so fast...I stay strong in the beginning and bypass everything that catches my eye, but after like the 150th store with adorable clothes and sale signs everywhere, you start to break down...I spent less than $100 on all that but I was carrying like 9 bags because of the backpacks I had bought earlier that day and the Etude House/Missha stuff. I forgot to mention how much that makes me stand out lol. Whenever I go shopping and then head home afterwards with my 5-6 bags, it automatically makes me look foreign because the people who live here have this all the time so they never really go on "sprees". If anything, the most they are carrying is one small bag from a cosmetics shop or a paper bag with a cake from a bakery. I stopped for a minute on a bench to think and regroup, and then realized some of my purchases were things that could hold other stuff! I packed my purse and all the smaller bags into my small duffel and into the larger of the two backpacks I had bought and headed back into the subway with my hands now blessedly free...they were starting to turn red and throb from all the weight they had been carrying lol. 
As SOON as I started carting around the duffel and backpack people would ask me if I was Korean first thing, as if checking haha. They wouldn't immediately assume I was. Then I would get the chance to tell them I was from America and avoid all the awkward staring, the averted eyes, and confused looks. I guess Americans who LOOK American (read: white people) are rare here but Asian people who LOOK Korean then don't know a lick of Korean and say they're from America are even rarer -.- How splendid for me. I'm practically a martyr. Or an alien.

Also, I saw a Jo Kwon on the subway home. It was young and still had not reached full J.Kwon maturity, but it was most DEFINITELY a Jo Kwon :D I couldn't believe my eyes. I wanted to take him home with me so I can be his friend when he gets older and he can make me laugh until I turn blue and die hahah. I was happy leaving him there though. The next generation will need another Jo Kwon once my generation's one has gotten older and gone into retirement...pfft. Who am I kidding. Jo Kwon will never go into retirement xD
 
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THE LINE FOR THIS PLACE WAS SO LONG o.o
I met my friend Dajeong today for lunch at a place in Gangnam she described to me as kind of "unique"...didn't know if I should be scared or not hahah. Thankfully it turned out to be this AMAZING italian-fusion restaurant with a unique THEME. The food was also unique but in a good way :) I say italian-fusion because it was italian food, but not. Dajeong described it as Korean-ized, which I am now officially going to make a word because it describes so many things perfectly lol. There are so many foods and concepts here that I recognize but that are a little different, or tweaked, or something...it is because they are Korean-ized and totally awesome in general. 

The line for the restaurant was so long!! The place was SO popular, I was really excited :) The line of people curved out of the restaurant and around onto the sidewalk and into the office building next door! 0.0 And more people came as soon as Dajeong and I took a place at the end of the line! I COULDN'T BELIEVE IT. 

The theme for the restaurant was "construction" I guess? It was very metal and factory-worker chic inside, with a very fun, laid-back but still classy atmosphere. I had noticed all the waiters seemed to be cheerful, attractive young men and I later found out why from Dajeong. She was telling me how this restaurant was really popular for women especially. I asked why, and she said it was like Coffee Prince: Restaurant Version; this restaurant ONLY hired good-looking young males :D AND IT TOTALLY WORKS. I couldn't believe I was sitting in a real life version of Coffee Prince hahah, and watching it's ridiculous success with my own two eyes. Why don't more businesses here do this? There's not really discrimination prevention laws here like the ones in America, so why not haha. 
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We ate our way through the pan cheese from each side and completely without meaning to, we ended up creating what looked like a slice of pizza!! When we sat back, pretty full, we looked down and realized we'd turned the fake pizza into some real pizza hahah. We ate a little more, making it a SMALLER pizza slice but this ended up being how we left it since we were stuffed. We cracked up over this for quite awhile too...yea. We're of the easily amused variety, clearly :D
Once inside, we ordered at a central ordering desk (think Stonefire) and in accordance with the construction theme, we received a construction hat with a number on it. We decided on a garlic bacon pan cheese (that's right, I said pan CHEESE, not pan pizza...details later) and spaghetti salad (can't believe this hasn't been invented and reached widespread popularity by now). They asked which general area we were sitting in, since the place was HUGE, and then gave us our hat. 

S/N: This place really was gigantic, in terms of Korean restaurants over here. Most are small and narrow and go either up a floor or down a floor if they are "larger" places. This one was two stories, packed in with tables (all of which were full), and REALLY wide, so I was surprised at the scale of it all. Guess they need it to accomodate the flood of customers...and there's STILL a massive line outside!

The inside of this place is extremely lively and its fun just sitting in there. When the waiters come by with your food, they are loud and energetic and talk you through the food (which comes in big bowls that you share from; everything here is like Stonefire, down to the numbers on your table waiters use to find you to bring your food) and then give each person at the table a big high five!! HOW FUN :D Dajeong had called my attention to it earlier when a waiter was giving another table with a boy and girl at it, high-fives. I thought they had just told a joke or something, or they knew the waiter. So I was somewhat shocked when our waiter came, explained everything, and then energetically held his hand out to me for a high-five. No wonder this place is so popular with the women hahah. Whoever is the business owner is a smart cookie. And a rich one T.T
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OUR DELICIOUS FOOD. I don't know what kind of food they serve up there in heaven, but it's gotta be something like this spaghetti salad and bacon & garlic pan cheese.
The food was sooooooo yummmmmmmmmmy. I almost melted all over the table, it was so good. Dajeong I'm sorry I probably wasn't very good conversation, what with me stuffing my face as fast as I humanely could for a good 10 minutes xD The salad, while normal looking on top, had a bed of spaghetti underneath the lettuce that you mix up with the leaves. It had a sort of dressing on it that was really good, light but with a bit of spicy to it to keep it interesting. 

The pan cheese was exactly what it sounded like. Like a pan pizza, but all cheese. Alllllll cheese :D In other words, MY FOODIE DREAM COME TRUE. I couldn't believe it when I started eating it and tasted it (you scoop it with a spoon btw). Now, everyone knows burnt cheese is pretty much the best thing on this planet, because it doesn't actually burn it just gets all crispy, golden-brown, and delicious. Yea well, this was AN ENTIRE PAN OF THAT DELICIOUS CRISPY, GOOEY CHEESE. WITH BACON AND ROASTED GARLIC CHIPS ON TOP OF IT. THAT YOU EAT WITH A GIANT SPOON OUT OF THE PAN. How the eff does life get ANY better than this, honestly? Can somebody tell me? Anyone, no? Didn't think so. 
Once I had calmed down enough for rational conversation (read: once I was completely stuffed and the food was taken away), we headed out to hit Innisfree and Aritaum in search of more face masks and some other stuff I wanted to take back home with me. It really helps having someone along who speaks both English and Korean fluently because then she could read me the labels on all the sheet masks and bottles I was purchasing when they didn't have English on them. Most of the time they do, but they don't put much information in English, just the bare essentials (like, This is a hand lotion. Or Face scrub for exfoliation). It doesn't tell me whats in it or what specific thing it is for (whitening, moisturizing, acne-prone skin). Having Daejong along is a god-send.

We stopped for coffee at a place called The Banana & Co, Today just seemed to be a day of both gargantuan proportions and extreme popularity because this was EASILY the most giant coffeeshop I've ever been in, United States and Korea locations both. We ordered our drinks on the first level when we walked in then started looking for a table. The decor inside was simple, cute, and a bit funky with splashes of color among the glass and black. Finding none on the first floor, we went up the stairs to the second floor. Finding none on the second floor, we went up to the third floor. Finding none on the third floor, we went up to the fourth floor. Finding none on the FOURTH floor, we went up to the FIFTH FLOOR. And finding none on the FIFTH FLOOR, DAJEONG WENT UP MORE STAIRS TO CHECK A FREAKING SIXTH FLOOR ATTIC AREA. Really?! A six-floor gigantic coffee shop?? WITH EVERY TABLE FILLED. Holy criminy, I seriously couldn't believe it. Every. Single. Table. In this massive place. On the higher up floors they had those cute Asian low tables where you take off your shoes before going up on the raised platform where the tables were, and sit on cushions. 
Admitting defeat, we began the long, long descent back down to Earth (aka the first-floor). Back on the first floor, we happened to see a small table right by the staircase that we immediately grabbed. Almost simultaenously, Dajeong noticed another staircase behind the one we had just come down on...one that went DOWN. HOMG THIS BUILDING HAS FLOORS BELOW US TOO?!?!?!? O.o

Dajeong also spotted another table that just opened up by the windows so we relocated to that one instead, just as our buzzer rang. We sipped our drinks and happily chatted for awhile now that we fiiiiiiinally had a table; I've really missed this girl!! :)
Dajeong asked me if there was anything else I was trying to buy while I was here and I mentioned I had wanted a rechargable battery, like the kind that you can pre-charge then carry around and charge your phone, ipod, tablet, etc. if they happen to die on you away from home? This had happened a few times to me during the days I was at the music broadcasting shows, due to lots of phone use talking to my friends and taking lots of pictures. And being without your phone, in a foreign country, all by yourself is just...not a good way to go, okay? For one, I can't even listen to music on the subway. Or take pretty pictures for you folks to see later. On another note, I can't call for help if I ever needed it or locate my friends if they're trying to find me. I also can't use my Jihachul app to find me a subway route to wherever I want to go either. So I really wanted a backup plan, in case this happened again.

Dajeong thought for a bit then took me to an Apple retailer called Frisbee (like I explained in my first trip's blog, there are no actual Apple stores here, only licensed retailers). After asking around, we found a selection of rechargable batteries, some only for the iphone, some big, some small. I settled on a slim, metal one that had a USB port; I wanted to be able to charge an appliance I had with me that needed it, not just my iPhone. This particular battery was super cool too, as it was multi-functional. It was also a flashlight, a pocket handwarmer (heated up like a mini-heater!), AND a rechargable battery. It had different settings you could click the top to, and different light colors it glowed for each function so you'd have to be blind and sensationless to mix it all up. Talk about a nifty thing to have in an emergency, ANY kind of emergency, huh? :D

When I opened the box later, I also realized IT COMES WITH ITS OWN SOCK COVER. I almost fell over, it was so cute and adorable and Asian and AWESOME. I actually just wasn't expecting it lol, it was so perfect for it.
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Top left: waiting for the subway back home with all my purchases in hand! - Top right: colorful adorable hoodies at a street vendor's display! I wanted one so bad (I had seen them at other places around Seoul) but I have so many hoodies and jackets already...so I resisted. No mean feat, I tell you... - Bottom left: Can't forget about my favorite touristy thing to do here in Seoul...media pole pictures!! :D - Bottom right: a super awesome, artsy map of the area of Gangnam we were in. I'm assuming it was for tourists but it was so pretty it was like a work of art instead.
On the way back home as I walked through Gangnam station, I almost ran into this guy carrying a gigantic fistful of instant coffee packets clutched tightly in one hand, holding it out in front of him. He was walking like he was on a mission. Uh...okay?? Lol, I'm sure there's a really good story behind that...or he's just weird. 
Back in my room I surveyed my purchases from today. I had several new types of pretty face masks to try with some new free Aritaum and Innisfree essence samples to try out as well. I also had picked up some green tea latte and green flake latte (with crispy brown rice in it) instant packets at Olive Young; since Dajeong knew about my green tea latte infatuation, she suggested I try out some instant brands to see if I liked one so I could bring it back with me if I wanted. She's such a good friend :)) 

I had also picked up this ADORABLE little black and tan knapsack for only 10,000 won!! I had seen this exact backpack in Myeongdong at a bag sellers place for like 60,000 won when I was there with Jess. Jess, do you remember it? I was holding two bags and asked you to check the price of this one (that I just bought today) that was hanging on the wall above you in that Myeongdong shop? I am definitely coming back to this store before I leave and picking up another bag...or two. Their bag designs here are seriously cute. The bag looks small in the picture, but its a nice size in actuality, and is more than big enough to fit all the stuff from my purse. I love when bags have zippers everywhere where I can put small things too <3
 
Ladies & gentlemen it seems in my distress over Jess leaving me in Korea, I somehow FORGOT TO MAKE AN ENTIRE POST for 3.19.13, her last day here. I have NO idea how this happened but it is completely ridiculous. This has never happened before, me completely missing an entire batch of photos. You all know how OCD and borderline crazy I am (lol). Anyways, here it is. It will be filed under it's proper date though, so it won't appear at the top of the blog page >.< 미안!

And on to fun stuff! Today was Jess's last day, as she was flying out tomorrow :( It was a toss-up whether it would be spent at Edae or Myeongdong (two of the places left on our to-do list this trip), and she chose Myeongdong so off we went. Myeongdong is located pretty much directly in the center of Seoul, not far from Hongdae, Ehwa, Itaewon, and the like. 
We had passed this little shop on our way transferring from the Green line to the Light Blue Line before and always meant to stop to try it. Today was the day haha, so we bought some...whatever they are. They looked and tasted like sweet crumpled waffle cones coated in chocolate and sprinkles. I got a green tea chocolate one (surprise surprise ㅋㅋ) and Jess got a white chocolate with rainbow sprinkles one. 


We had both seen the mallet lying on the counter and had been vaguely wondering what purpose it served, when the man took out my green tea...thing...and then whacked it with the mallet!! And again and again, until it was in lots of yummy little eatable pieces. Ah ha, so THAT's how you eat something that is roughly the size of a grapefruit lol. Munching on our breakfast treats, we rushed to catch the next transfer subway a few floors down. 
One of the things we had been looking forward to finding in Myeongdong was the custom Converse store! I've been to Myeongdong several times before but had never been looking for anything in particular so I had never noticed the Converse store around. We located it alright, but the workers inside told us the custom part of the store (second floor) didn't open until 1pm. Well then. We had a good couple hours to kill. In the awesome, colorful, bustling, cosmetics store-laden, food vendor-filled, clothing stands-packed area known as Myeongdong. Gosh, what a chore... :D
We wandered, doing some idle shopping and I bought some awesomely unique stud earrings at a shop. They sell a lot of earring pairs here that include a third earring for a conch piercing or helix piercing. It's awesome since I have both now, and can have a third earring in those higher piercings to match the lobe ones :) We got ugly hot dogs and chicken vegetable skewers from a food cart and munched on our snacks in a state of supreme happiness. I was chatting with a Japanese lady and her high-school daughter who were eating standing next to us at the same cart. They didn't know much English but I used the little Japanese I knew, and they did vice versa with English lol. They were very sweet; the Japanese lady even gestured towards my clothes and told me I was so stylish, and she liked my whole outfit! I was so flattered... that's such a nice thing to say especially to a complete stranger x) <3
Obviously after eating a savory snack, now we need bubble tea! We hunted down this bubble tea shop I had come to last time I was here that was AMAZING. It was called Gong Cha and I have no idea what Gong means, but I know "cha" is "tea" in Korean (similar to "ocha" in Japanese!). It's extremely popular, and there was a massive crowd inside + line going out the door. Nonetheless, they were efficient and the line moved relatively quickly. I can't remember the drink I always order there because I kind of just know where it's place on the menu is, find it, and read it off to the serving girl but its a green tea (actual green tea, not like my lattes lol) milk something with white jelly. 

It is THE BOMB. Cofioca is still #1 in my heart, but the drink I get at Gong Cha has just an entirely different taste all it's own. It's unique and delicious. After getting my drink, I went upstairs to find a table rather than wait with Jess and be jostled and glared at by the massive crowd downstairs by the bar. What's nice about the usual multi-story structure of many coffee shops, restaurants, and clothing stores here is that once you go up, you usually have a nice view of the surrounding area to people-watch or daydream or just to enjoy a nice bright backdrop while you chat. I like it better than when the coffeeshops go belowground instead of up.
We went back to the custom Converse store now that it was past 1pm, only to be told (by a different sales associate than the one we asked this morning) that the custom studio WASN'T EVEN OPEN TODAY. DAFUQ. We can't exactly argue with them and I didn't know how to explain about the associate who told us it was open at 1pm in Korean, so we just left. We did some more minor shopping around so Jess could buy more gifts to bring home, before we headed back to the subway.

Another thing I had told Jess we needed to try before she left was Manoffin, a cupcake shop located in most subway stations. They have the most adorably delectable cupcakes EVER. And I mean EVERRRR. They make me want to just buy one of each and preserve them in a glass case to use as decoration around my room, they are so perfect and cute. Last time I got one of their staple cupcakes, Black Prince (which was black tea-based) and was definitely a cupcake. This time I got an Almond Proposal cupcake, which had a texture more like a muffin...not surprising I suppose, given the shop's name lol. I forget the name of the one Jess got but hers was SUPER adorable and cute too. We were reluctant to eat them because they were so pretty to look at but eventually hunger won out. As expected, they were delicious. And more filling than you would think actually...must have been the muffin-consistency. 
Some tv and bedrest later, we headed out again to meet Haeri at Seullong station for kbbq. She had found a new kbbq place lately that she really liked (and we love kbbq haha) so we were excited. We chatted all the way to the place and then ordered this wine-soaked samgyupsal (I think it was wine? Or some other Korean alcoholic equivalent) that had whole peppercorns on it. It was SOOOOO GOOOOOOD. Just the smell of it cooking was mouth-watering enough. Hanging out with Haeri is always lots of fun, as she's such a cheerful and sweet person. Cheerful people like her bring out the super bubbly valley girl in me haha, I always get so excited >.< 

Haeri took us to a nearby store that sold all manner of things from pens and office supplies, to bedroom essentials, to phone chargers and cases. It was such an awesomely handy store, the kind you want to have right next to wherever you are living haha. It's like Staples, Fry's, and Target rolled in one cute little place! We went to Ediya Coffee down the street afterwards for dessert and talked over our drinks. We ended up thumbing through this massive Korean fashion magazine as well, exclaiming over clothes, pretty models, and who had or hadn't gotten plastic surgery done xD Well, we ARE girls...

Haeri and I went on a hilarious hunt for a restroom later, consulting this funny treasure-map kind of area sketch in Ediya at length to find the restroom. We trekked all the way outside, around the block corner, and up into this shady little office building lobby to find a bathroom...only to find there was no toilet paper. After ALL that. I just held it until we got home later that night haha. I'm blaming being so pre-occupied with needing to pee that night for forgetting entirely about writing this post. It was a good day though :)
 
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New bunny socks and a new blue hair bow! :)
Today we were headed to Gayang, to attend Inkigayo with Haeri! Haeri was a former girl group celebrity, and thus has lots of connections with the groups, their managers, and the broadcasting systems. At the young age of 20, she is also running a company called Kompany93 that sells albums and other merchandise!
Inkigayo is one of the major 5 broadcasting stations in Seoul. It is also the most difficult to get into, due to the small studio space. To get tickets you have to win them via lottery, which I think I talked about in my earlier post on M!Countdown. Haeri got us those magic tickets without the lottery, because she is awesome. When we arrived, we went straight to front amidst hordes of lined up people (WITH tickets, I couldn't believe how many people there were just filling up the entire side of the street waiting to get in). We got our tickets straight from 2AM's manager O.o We waited in our appropriate line for our seat numbers for awhile, then we headed in! 
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Inkigayo stage at the very beginning and at the end! Also a random shot of another rare skateboard sighting in Seoul :D
THE LIVE SHOW WAS INCREDIBLE!! 2AM, SHINee, Nu'est, BAP, U-Kiss, Speed, Girl's Day, Rainbow, Lee Hi, Nine Muses, G.NA, Rania, Peppertones, VerbalJint, D-Unit, Lady's Choice, & more made for a great line-up. It's really fun getting to see all that goes on behind filming these live shows, with all the cameras, television screens doing replays or zoom-ins, cameramen, make-up people, the MC's pacing around practicing their lines, light and sound checks, clean-up crews after each performance, etc. I just feel like I'm in wonderland haha. 
Afterwards we all went for chicken with Haeri's friend Dayeon (Diane)! It was freezing outside so we while we ate we all had a good laugh at the crazy fangirls lining the streets in the cold wind waiting for a glimpse of oppa...in a car...with TINTED WINDOWS...for like 0.5 seconds. Seriously people? YOU CAN'T EVEN SEE THEM. They would occasionally all run from side to side like chickens with their heads cut off whenever people started screaming- which was basically everytime a car came out of the parking lot for the studio. Aish. 

But anyways, back to the good part. The chicken was bomb, we got three kinds. We got baked garlic bone-in and a chili sauce & regular crispy boneless chicken! SO YUMMYLICIOUS NOMNOMNOM. I struggled for a bit in the beginning, because opposite to the American way of eating chicken wings, grabbing a wing and stuffing it into your mouth (which was my first impulse until I realized it'd be perceived as vulgar), I had to learn "chicken couture" as Haeri cutely put it ^.^ There were pairs of tiny tongs and a fork for each person, and you use those to hold and pull off pieces of chicken to eat. So your hands don't get dirty of course. While I deeply appreciate the sentiment behind this (since I am one of those OCD people who hates eating messy foods in public, like ribs), the chicken smelled and tasted SO GOOD all I really wanted to do was grab one with my hand and yank off a huge bite. Instead, I daintily placed delicate bite after delicate bite into my mouth like a proper Korean girl and washed it down with Chilsung. No wonder they're all so thin here T.T
After chicken Jess, Haeri, & I trekked it back via subway (Haeri lives in Seulleong, which is the subway stop RIGHT next to Yeoksam). JEss & I got back to the room but didn't feel like staying in. We were both craving something sweet, so we headed out in search of a coffeeshop that was still open (coffeeshops here seem to vary in terms of hours- some are open super early but close early and some open late but close late. And some both open early and stay open late, and one in particular I've noticed opens SUPER late and closes SUPER early. I know this because I have been attempting to try this damn coffee place for a total of 8 weeks now and am STILL UNSUCCESSFUL. Tragic). Since it was pretty late, we ended up at my usual Pascucci's. We hemmed and hawed but we were both eyeing their new drink, a Strawberry Gelato Latte. It's a smoothie-like drink, and was pretty much the tastiest thing I've ever had the good fortune to sip on. No, seriously. Jess and I were just silent as we were sipping them, so as to put all our attention towards fully enjoying the drink and savoring it's taste as it deserved to be savored *.* It was cool and sweet and with the scoop of strawberry gelato, it was so creamy! Ugh. The price tag it comes with has prevented me from buying it again (7,000 or 7,500 won, I can't remember). But I may have to sneak another one before I leave...ugh. Just writing about it is making me want another one. What the hell did they PUT in that thing, I'm like a crack fiend...
 
Candace: Remember that second ear piercing I got at Nana's the other day? Well I was really worried it was infected because it was red, swollen, and bleeding like crazy. This normally wouldn't have phased me after getting 7 other piercings and knowing this is sometimes normal afterwards, but it felt & looked like my piercing was too tight (e.g. the bar going through my ear was too small and the end cubes on either side were pressing into my skin). I went back to Nana's in Apgujeong to get it checked, since the girl who had pierced my ear had told me to come back in a few days to get both piercings checked out anyway. 
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Awesome rainbow samurai owl set in the ground in front of a clothing store & various shots of the streets and side streets I walked through!
Jess was tired out from yesterday so she rested up in the room while I went out. I really do love just taking my time and meandering around the city. Everything is the same, yet so different from home! I feel like one of those stickers in the sticker books you get as a kid. You pick them up and place them on different pages as you move through the book; I feel like a sticker plopped down at a crosswalk in Korea! I look like I fit in (until I open my mouth ha) but I know that I am from somewhere else ^^.


The girl at Nana's took one look at my ear and plunked me down in a chair while she did...something. I don't know what she did, unscrewed the ends or replaced the bar (doubtful since that's bad so early in the healing process) or what but somehow after some pain, she showed me in the mirror how the bar was now like twice the length and the ends were no longer pressing into my skin. HALLELUJAH. I could physically FEEL the release of pressure as she did...whatever she did to my ear. So much better :) The girl who had helped me for both my piercings was this super cute, tiny, thing with AWESOME clothes and piercings. She also knew a tiny bit of English that she really tried to communicate to us with, was a lot nicer to us than the other workers there, and seemed to know what she was doing more than the rest as well. I recommend her if anyone ever ends up going there. 
Aaaaaand since I'm ALREADY right next door to Cofioca, I might as well go right? :D Don't answer that, it was rhetorical. And moot point, since nothing but raging howler monkeys could keep away (I know all about them now after our trip to the zoo! [zoo is next post]). The lady who runs the shop is seriously the sweetest thing on this planet. She's so cute and itty bitty and seems to recognize me at this point...I can hardly say I'm shocked given my addiction to this place, heh. I relaxed in the shop for awhile watching tv and sipping my bubble tea, before leaving. She was all "you're leaving already??" then thanked me as I said my goodbyes and bowed my way out. 
Now, since I hadn't done much clothes shopping since I got here I figured I would swing by the Gangnam Underground Shopping Center, located at the Express Bus Terminal subway stop. It was on the way home after all. 

I forgot how much I loved being in the shopping center; not even buing stuff, just being in there and cruising among all the cool stuff in the hundreds of shops :) It is undoubtedly my favorite place to be in Seoul...aside from in my room and at my twiggim lady's food stand that is. The noise and the hubbub from all the people and store owners and the colors and music playing is fun to be a part of ^^.
You knew this was coming, buuuut I did damage :3 I just can't help it. Next time I'll throw YOU all into this madness and see if you can resist the adorable clothes everywhere you turn for so cheap it's makes your head spin. I got 3 cute long sleeves, 3 chiffon button-ups, an aqua-colored cardigan, some cozy fleece PJ bottoms, 3 adorable thick knit sweaters, and the cutest blazer-trenchcoat jacket ever...all for about $100. The coat has an adorable print inner lining and it all flares out until around my knees, so I spent a good 5 minutes twirling in it when I first got home. Yes I am 5-years old, thanks for asking :)
 
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My new piercing! You can't see it very well in this picture but it's a tiny little matte black cube :) - Back to our favorite Cofioca in Apgujeong! We'd go anywhere for this bubble tea ^^
Candace: Today was a rainy one so we had another late start. We lazed around all morning and recovered a bit from our trekking yesterday! Finally the lure of bubble tea at Cofioca got us out of the hotel haha. Off to Apgujeong we went! Since we were in the area anyway, we stopped by Nana's to look at jewelry. I got my third lobe piercing on my right ear I had been considering for awhile too! It is my 8th ear piercing so I knew I wanted something smaller and more subdued than my other piercings...I chose a cute, tiny, matte black cube! Jess also bought a pair of really cute wing earrings. This will be it for my right ear; I've always wanted a tragus piercing but my tragus is too tiny. If it was pierced I'd be unable to wear ear phones and we all know that is simply NOT an option lol. Music is life <3
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At the top of the U-Plex in Sinchon! Colorful and pretty isn't it? :)
Sipping our delicious bubble teas, we next headed off for Sinchon. I am familiar with this area because this is where my friends Yeji & Jessie live around! I also know this area because it is right between Hongdae and Edae, two of my favorite trendy places to eat and shop. After touring through the U-Plex (giant shopping mall with cafe, ice cream, etc) and taking pictures at the top, we hit the streets in search of dinner.
Since we had been denied the FryPan back in Itaewon, I remembered there was one here as well! In fact, the one here in Sinchon was the one I had personally been to before, when Yeji brought me with her :) I even vaguely remembered where it was, since I recognized the streets coming from Yonsei University (where I stayed with her for a night). Nonetheless, I was taking no chances and had her give me exact directions to get to there before we set off ^.^ 

Happily we made it there without incident and enjoyed a most delicious dinner. Seriously, this stuff is so good. It comes with two dipping sauces of your choice and we chose Sweet Garlic & Thai Chili, or something along those lines lol. SO BOMB.
We dodged foot traffic and real traffic alike on our way back to the subway station- with several universities in the area, there is a veritable flood of humanity out and about at all times apparently. I recall being overwhelmed the first time I walked around here with Yeji; I was like OMGSOMANYPEOPLE o.o 

After a trek through the department store attached to the station, we took the subway for an hour until we got home. Time for some serious R & R before we go at it again tomorrow!
 
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My new glasses! & photos of our yummy Thai noodle lunch @ NoodleBox
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My boba from one of my favorite bubble tea places, Bubble Tree, while we searched for FryPan/Kraze Burger!
Candace: We had big plans for today...and we accomplished almost none of them haha. But not for lack of trying!! We must have made about 8573874 different transfers & walked up and down 3849287 more flights of stairs as we traversed Seoul but the important thing is, we made it home in one piece at the end of the day ^.^ 

We got a late start today so we headed to Itaewon for lunch at the FryPan, the most delicious beer & fried chicken place I've ever experienced in my life. They homemake their own chips too; they present your fried chicken on a bed of these. 45 minutes and 3 transfers later, we arrived! But unfortunately, I had forgotten that it's an evening place and doesn't open until 5 -.- Fail #1.

So I remembered last time I was here, there was a Kraze Burger, which we had also been wanting to try. We searched in vain all around the area I was sure I remembered it being in. Finally we realized it had closed up, and thats why it was no longer there. Double -.-... Fail #2. We ended up at the NoodleBox, which was a noodle place I had been dying to try on my last trip but it was ALWAYS completely packed to the brim with people. That's how you know it's good ^.~ The noodles were SUPER delicious but really spicy so I handled as much as I could and took the rest in a box. I have much to work at to match the Korean levels of spicy...
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I rode the teal-colored Jungang Line for the first time today!! I've never had a reason to ride it before, so it was kind of fun exploring new stations and trains. We spent some time wandering around the KTX station at Yongsan (KTX is like their high-speed trains). I also noticed that some of their older lines, where the train cars loaded passengers and ran ABOVEground as opposed to belowground like most of the subway lines we take, strongly resembled the trains I took in Japan. Makes sense, since Japan's extensive train system has been going for longer than Korea's, where much of the system is new and high-tech ^^.
Next on our list was to visit a CGV theater here...and not just any CGV theater. A 4D one! (CGV is just their AMC as far as I can tell). So we made a quick half-hour and 3 transfer trip to Yongsan from Itaewon to get to the theater and went on a MISSION trying to find the theater once we arrived at the station...but sadly, only two movies were currently showing in 4D & neither looked interesting :/ Fail #3. 
We next headed back towards home to go to COEX, the giant shopping mall/event centerof Seoul. It is located in Samseong, 2 stops from Yeoksam. I knew for sure there was a Kraze Burger there, so off we went! And Jeff: I FOUND YOU TOTORO!! Sorry they didn't have any kimchi kitkats, but my trip is still young. 
Anyways, on to Kraze. I have been meaning to try Kraze Burger for FOREVER, but somehow I ran out of time on my last trip. I had heard a lot about it and how yummy the food was there. It's often featured in dramas or movies as well. Therefore, I was really excited to try it this time around! Like many other things we Americans think of as fingerfood or fastfood, the Kraze burger here is somewhat fancy. You eat it with a knife and fork. You also eat the fries with a fork. 

Lemme tell ya, it is the WEIRDEST thing trying to slice a bun and a piece of lettuce with a knife and fork to get a bite in your mouth, because the top bun keeps falling off the bottom half so you end up just cutting them seperately after awhile >.< I had to suppress so many urges to just drop the silverware and grab the burger and take a big munch out of it, cuz that thing was FRIGGIN DELICIOUS. I however maintained my decorum and daintily sliced my lettuce leaf with my knife and fork like a good tourist. 
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The two burgers we ordered plus the fries!
Kraze is kind of a modern, mid-fancy, fun hangout...like where you'd want a first date to be. Nice enough to be counted as a date dinner, yet cozy and casual enough that you feel comfortable. We sat down and they handed us menus; we ordered the Matiz & the K.Bulgogi along with their Sweet Cheese Fries. Just look at those descriptions in the menu pictures and TELL ME THEY DON'T SOUND AWESOME. The fries were an experiment but like many other Asian foods I've experienced that combine ingredients that generally don't go together, they were BOMB. They sounded ridiculously weird, but it totally worked. We gobbled those things down just in time for the main course to arrive. We split the burgers in half so we could each try (an easy feat due to the fact that we already had a knife and fork handy heh). They had a ton of other delicious-sounding burgers on the menu too, so those will have to wait until next time. For now the verdict is: DEFINITELY WORTH THE HYPE.
 
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I got a chicken curry croquette, a cheese in cheese bagel, and we shared some mini strawberry flaky tarts.
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It's almost White Day here (March 14) so there's lots of cute displays everywhere! They all look so tasty.... o.o
Candace: Aaaaand it's another beautiful day in Seoul! A bit blustery but much warmer than yesterday ^.^ We stopped by my favorite Paris Baguette for breakfast and some second story people-watching- always a good time. 

But first, a word on crossing streets in Seoul. As I've said before, the drivers are crazy and if you value your life you will look left, right, leftrightleftrightleftright before you cross any side street longer than a friggin doormat because even that is fair game for a motorcyclist or delivery guy on a scooter. It hit me again how dangerous being a pedestrian is when we paused to check a side street, did our US-taught look Left, Right, then Left again, and JUST when we think were safe, WHAMMO, car swerves outta nowhere and tears up at us. Needless to say, we backed up in two shakes and stood calmly, like we had had no intention whatsoever of crossing just now. And no, you didn't just almost second-degree manslaughter us. 
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The views from and within the second story of Paris Baguette. I know I mentioned before how most things go straight up or straight down here, since space is at a premium within Seoul. Coffee shops seem to be of the go-up variety in general.
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My adorable cup of coffee from Paris Baguette (HE HAS EYES!!!!) and Pig Rabbit!! (any You're Beautiful watchers out there?). The bottom photo is some seriously cute metal detailwork items we spotted in Kyobo Tower.
We tend to make early starts on our day still, since we are jet-lagged per say...more like just sleep-messed-up. So we had time to kill in this coffee shop until our destination, Kyobo Tower was up and kicking. We still needed the rest of our arts and crafts stuff (namely gllitter :D). Luckily, once there we found all we needed and more. Am I the only one who has an obsession with cool paper?! Maybe it's the scrapbooker in me, but I LOVE cool papers, with like see through qualities, or metallics, or stuff embedded in the paper, or 3-D qualities...I WANT THEM ALL.
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Nana's, the walk in Apgujeong, and my two ears: now matching! I got the same stud in turquoise (my favorite color!) as my third lobe piercing in my other ear. I LOVE my new piercing :)
Next up we went to Apgujeong, where the famous Nana is located. This is where I wanted to get my conch pierced! Jess was supposed to get it with me but she decided not to at the last minute. It didn't hurt nearly as much as I thought it would; it's supposed to be the most painful ear piercing since it's going through the thickest part of your ear (pretty much the entire ear). I've found that most often my ear piercings have ADD when it comes to pain. It hurts at the moment of piercing, then absolutely nothing, then about 15 minutes later the adrenaline wears off and it hurts like a ^#&(%, then dulls, then nothing again. After that, I never feel it at all unless I bump it or hit it by accident. These are the longest-healing ear piercings as well, taking anywhere from 6 months to 2 years! Hope I can keep up with the cleaning like I need to, cuz I REALLY love this one :) It's as adorable as I thought it would be! <3 It was also ridiculously cheap at 10,000 won. THAT'S LIKE $9. I paid like $40 for my SINGLE LOBE piercing back home at Nathan's on Topanga, which is like the simplest, smallest ear piercing you can get. Seriously Korea, you keep kicking United States butt. I'm tempted to get another one now while I'm here, just cuz. 
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Top & left picture: The inside of Cofioca! Papered with autographs from celebrities :) - Middle right & bottom right: The inside of Nana! Probably the largest and coolest collection of jewelry and earrings I have ever seen in my life. Seriously, this stash is MASSIVE. And we stood around and looked throuhg all the cute earrings for at least 15 minutes before I even remembered to get my piercing done lol.
We went to Cofioca down the street next, which is a famous bubble tea shop where a lot of celebrities go. I was fully expecting it to be just another boba shop, famous only because so many famous go there. I was, however, immediately proven wrong. That was HANDS DOWN the best boba I've ever had in my life. It was so good, we started craving it again WHILE WE STILL HAD OUR BOBAS. And the lady propietor was so so cute and sweet to us, trying to help and sending us off with napkins and stuff when we left. The shop was also tiny, much tinier than I was expecting for such a well-known place. It was no bigger than a walk-in closet in front, with a couple tables smushed next to each other and every inch of available wall covered with autographs from stars. It made for a very cozy and homey kind of feel, I really liked it :)
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Our green tea & taro bobas; our daily subway picture; our twiggim dinner!; my AWESOME robot ice cube molds I bought from Daiso the other day- they're supposed to be chocolate molds but they work perfectly as adorable ice cube trays haha.
On the subway ride home, we had to stand, as we have had to most of the time. There is generally almost always someone older than us standing with us so I always give the seat to them. Several spots opened up but I kept offering them to others despite all the bags I was carrying. Apparently one of the adjummas (middle-aged women) I was standing in front of noticed (we were holding the hand ties than hang in front of seated people), and the next time a seat opened next to her, she caught my attention and told me to sit down! I sat. You don't say no to adjummas lol. But I immediately jumped up though and gave my seat to another woman who had just boarded, because the lady next to me had said something about a chingu, which means friend. I thought she was saying she had intended this seat for her friend who had just boarded lol, so I quickly got up. It was a misunderstanding though. The sweet adjumma who had first told me to sit down then said something and took my bags from me and held them for me on her lap! I had heard about people doing this in my research for my first trip to Korea but had never actually seen it done. It was so kind and unexpected!. Especially for me coming from America, where people are more often selfish and out for themselves than not. 
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My twiggim lady and our first steps at Namsan! + my bear tag and some postcards :)
I had been heart-broken the other day when we went by my favorite twiggim street vendor and she wasn't there. I was worried she was gone, but TA-DA! she was there today! I was so happy I was jumping up and down like a 5-year old on Christmas haha. She had even upgraded, to thick outside covers with DOORS in them! Last time I was here, she had been out in the cold with no coverings, then towards the end of my stay, she had green windbreakers layered around her cart so the heat would stay in a little. Apparently she's doing well because now she can afford practically a whole metal-framed tent to herself! YAAAAAAAAAAAAY NEVER LEAVE ME TWIGGIM LADY. (it's like she's my drug dealer hahah)
After our dinner & a rest, we capped off our day with a night trip to Namsan. It took me a bit to remember my friend Dajeong's subway and bus directions to getting there but we got there in the end haha. We bought bear tags and had brought our locks we bought earlier at Daiso (I told you guys, I could seriously just live in that store forever; they have everything). I searched for where I put my lock last time but it was completely buried under several layers of other locks. I won't be finding it again in this life haha, maybe when they end up having to cut off locks when they run out of room in the future. I took a pictre of where it was buried instead. We locked our locks on a different corner this time, along with our messages!
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Top left: my old lock's resting place - Bottom right: my new locks place! - Photos on left: us in the observatory at the top of the tower!
We both bought tickets to go up to the top of the tower, where you can behold spectacular views and send postcards at the shop. We bought several postcards to send to family and friends and mailed them off, thousands of feet in the air :) The trip home was as tough as I remember it; Namsan is best viewed at night but that means we don't head home until 11pm-ish. While not a problem for me at home, this is late for me here with the jet-lag-messed-up-time-thing tenaciously hanging on to me. The bus ride and two subway transfers seemed to take forever, but once finally back and changed into bed clothes...KO'ed in about 30 seconds flat ^^.
 
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Our makeshift indoor/outdoor picnic blanket with our art supplies!
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My goodies so far :3
Today is Saturday over here so we decided to keep it simple and avoid the masses of humanity that are sure to be swarming the subways and streets. We had intended to have our artis & crafts day today but we couldn't find all the supplies we needed! :( We got a cute padded floor mat to work on too....we'll save it for tomorrow ^.^ We spent today doing some more sidewalk shopping and had an EPIC search for...lotion. Haha sounds silly but we didn't bring a lot of small essentials because we knew we could buy them here. However, they take cosmetics seriously here. It generally runs around 12,000 - 17,500 won for a small bottle of lotion, serum, essence, etc. A very CUTE and adorable looking gourmet bottle (e.g. lavender and goat milk, jasmine aqua capsule lotion, broccoli watery ampoule, gold caviar collagen serum) but too much for me to spend on some lotion, however deliciously tasty it sounds. I bought some at a general store instead for 2,000 won (less than $2), because I had spent so much on other stuff from SkinFood already in the past 2 days @.@

We stopped by my FAVORITE street food vendor who sells the most awesome twiggim (deep-fried kimbap rolls, vegetables, etc), but she wasn't there today! I hope she hasn't closed up shop in the 4 months since I've been here :((( I'll cry. Those mini kimbap rolls with japchae and rice inside were like little chunks of heaven FOR REAL.
Since the twiggim was unavailable to us, we decided on pizza! We went to the same pizza place I went to last time I was here, Mr. Pizza down the street. The adorable one that gives you your sauces in a gift bag and ribbon-wraps your pizza haha. I still can feel my shock the first time I was handed these when I ordered to go ^^. We also got some mini peptalks from the wrappers of my vitamin C drops, as seen above!

The pizza was DELICIOUS OMG. We got a deluxe one this time, with sweet pumpkin, potato, roasted garlic chips, broccoli, tender rib meat chunks, with BBQ sauce and a sweet potato filled crust (called Gold by Mr. Pizza). It was INSANE. I feel like everywhere else in the world but America treats pizza like a delicacy and a food to be dressed up haha. Only in the US is it eaten with beer & a sports game and/or at kids birthday parties. Today was also a bit more like the Seoul I remember, with crowded packed subway cars and lines to get through the scanning machines underground. As expected on a Saturday :) Tomorrow we will finish our arts and crafts gathering (I consulted my friend Dajeong for where else to look for materials; I was right in my guess and we are headed to Kyobo Tower!). We'll also be hitting the media poles along the street leading there so look for more silly pictures tomorrow ^.^~ Annyeong!
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The best thing about buying cosmetics here is the freebies you get with them. I bought the three on the left and the rest were freebies. ^^
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Delicious green apple yogurt. ^^